Category Archives: Focus Pocus

Focus Pocus – Revealed!

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Download your free copy of the entire pattern!   Available in my website’s Pattern Store or on Ravelry.

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Focus Pocus – Part 4

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Cruising down the foot of our sock was a fast knit with its easy to memorize pattern.  What a nice reward after your focused chart reading!  I adore learning new stitches and love knowing that I can pull the Twist 3 out of my bag of knitting tricks for future projects.

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My favorite part of the foot is the continued mirror imaging of Focus Pocus.

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One of my missions in this KAL was to help familiarize you with cuff down socks and illustrate how patterns can be knit in both directions (toe up or cuff down) suiting your preference.   Many knitters avoid cuff down socks because they do not like to graft the toe with the Kitchener Stitch.  I have eliminated this stitch by ending our sock with a Gored Toe.  This type of toe is worked in the same manner as the top of a hat – a series of decrease rounds that result in a few stitches that are then cinched to close the opening.  You can substitute the Gored Toe for any standard cuff down toe by simply working the decreases over a multiple of 6 stitches.  As you can see from the pattern below, a Set Up Round is required for our socks to achieve a multiple of 6 stitches before starting the toe.

In keeping with the mirror imaging in Focus Pocus, the toes will also be in a mirror image.  The decreases will swirl the toes toward each other for a perfect ending.  The Right Toe contains the ssk stitch to lean inward and to the left with the Left Toe decreasing inward to the right by using the k2tog stitch.  This principle can be applied to hats allowing you to choose the direction of your swirling decreases.

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I wrap up our knitting education with one of my favorite techniques – the smooth ssk.  Experienced knitters often lament the wonkiness of their ssk decrease line since it is not as tidy as the k2tog decrease line.  To minimize this effect with ssk decreases in circular knitting, knit the resulting ssk stitch on the subsequent round through the back loop and you will have a smoother and tidier line of decreases.  Watch my newest video, SSK – Smooth Version to add this slick trick to your knitting repertoire.  Your decrease line will be forever improved!

I have had a marvelous time leading you through Focus Pocus!  I will post a photo of the completed pair along with a condensed version of the complete pattern next week.  Don’t forget to enter your socks in the prize drawing to win a set of addi Click interchangeable needles.  Remember – every entry lets our sponsor know that you would like the KALs to continue.  I hope to knit with you again in April as the Progressive Needles KAL continues.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

April KAL

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Knit a gorgeous shawl with me featuring the brand new yarn from HiKoo – Rylie.  This luxurious yarn is is a blend of baby alpaca, mulberry silk and linen.  It is soft and strong with a lovely hand and is available in a variety of beautiful colors.  You won’t want to miss the new stitches and techniques as well as this exceptional yarn!

Materials

  • Rylie by HiKoo (50% baby alpaca, 25% mulberry silk, 25% linen), 2 skeins.
  • US #7 32″ needles or size needed to obtain desired gauge.

Gauge after blocking – approx. 20 sts = 4″ in stockinette.

 

Part Four

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together.  See K2tog Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.

See SSK Video

For a smoother ssk decrease line, See SSK – Smooth Version Video.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Gored Toe

Sock toes will swirl inward and towards each other – Right Sock Toe will swirl to the left and Left Sock Toe will swirl to the right.

NOTE:  Stitch count given at end of each decrease round is the number of stitches for one sock.

2aat

  • Needle #1- work Right Sock followed by Left Sock.
  • Needle #2 – work Left Sock followed by Right Sock.

dpn – Work appropriate Toe over each sock.

 

Size Small Toe

Set Up Round – decrease 2 sts per sock.

Right Sock – (ssk, k26) twice.

Left Sock – (k26, k2tog) twice.  (54 sts)

1.  Right Sock – *ssk, k7; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k7, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (48 sts)

2. (And all even numbered rounds)  Knit.

3.  Right Sock – *ssk, k6; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k6, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (42 sts)

5.  Right Sock – *ssk, k5; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (36 sts)

7.  Right Sock – *ssk, k4; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (30 sts)

9.  Right Sock – *ssk, k3; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (24 sts)

11.  Right Sock – *ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (18 sts)

13.  Right Sock – *ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (12 sts)

15.  Right Sock – *ssk; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (6 sts)

16.  Knit.

 

Size Medium Toe

Set Up Round – decrease 2 sts per sock.

Right Sock – (ssk, k29) twice.

Left Sock – (k29, k2tog) twice.  (60 sts)

1.  Right Sock – *ssk, k8; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (54 sts)

2. (And all even numbered rounds)  Knit.

3.  Right Sock – *ssk, k7; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k7, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (48 sts)

5.  Right Sock – *ssk, k6; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k6, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (42 sts)

7.  Right Sock – *ssk, k5; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (36 sts)

9.  Right Sock – *ssk, k4; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (30 sts)

11.  Right Sock – *ssk, k3; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (24 sts)

13.  Right Sock – *ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (18 sts)

15.  Right Sock – *ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (12 sts)

17.  Right Sock – *ssk; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (6 sts)

18.  Knit.

 

Size Large Toe

Set Up Round – decrease 2 sts per sock.

Right Sock – (ssk, k35) twice.

Left Sock – (k35, k2tog) twice.  (72 sts)

1.  Right Sock – *ssk, k10; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k10, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (66 sts)

2. (And all even numbered rounds)  Knit.

3.  Right Sock – *ssk, k9; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k9, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (60 sts)

5.  Right Sock – *ssk, k8; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (54 sts)

7.  Right Sock – *ssk, k7; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k7, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (48 sts)

9.  Right Sock – *ssk, k6; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k6, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (42 sts)

11.  Right Sock – *ssk, k5; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k5, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (36 sts)

13.  Right Sock – *ssk, k4; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (30 sts)

15.  Right Sock – *ssk, k3; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k3, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (24 sts)

17.  Right Sock – *ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (18 sts)

19.  Right Sock – *ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (12 sts)

21.  Right Sock – *ssk; repeat from * to end of sock.

Left Sock – *k2tog; repeat from * to end of sock.  (6 sts)

22.  Knit.

 

All Sizes

Cut yarn leaving an 8″ tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread tail through remaining 6 stitches.  Pull thread tightly to close top of toe and weave in end securely.

©2013 Michelle Hunter

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Every day should include a little bit of knitting magic!

Posted in Focus Pocus | 10 Responses

Focus Pocus – Part 3

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Isn’t the cuff so interesting with its moving ribbed lines?  I especially love how the diamond shape forms with the socks side by side.

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The smooth heel gives a professional look to our growing pair of socks as we are ready to cruise down the foot.  Again, I recommend placing a lifeline to protect the heel stitches.

The Foot will continue our mirror imaging by butting up a vertical stripe on each sock.  The stripe is comprised of a Twist 3 (TW3) stitch rib.  Twist stitches are formed by knitting a group of stitches out of order, much in the same manner as cable stitches, but without the use of a cable needle.  The TW3 is a bit finicky to execute, but with only one twist per sock on every other row, I know you will enjoy the addition to the design.  Many knitters find that the TW3 is much easier to work with the sharp needle tips found on the addi Sock Rockets and addi lace tips.  See Twist 3 Video

Work the Foot design until your sock measures 1 ½ (1 ½, 1 ¾)” less than desired length of foot.  How can this be determined?  With Magic Loop knitting, you can try the sock on at any time!  Simply move the stitches to the cable portion of the needle and slip your sock on to admire its progress and measure its length.  When your Foot is the appropriate measurement away from the tip of your toe then it is time to stop.

See you next week for a simple toe design with an amazing tip you will want to remember for all your decreasing!

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

TW3 (Twist Three) – skip two stitches, knit 3rd stitch on left hand needle, knit 2nd stitch, knit first stitch, then slip all 3 stitches from left hand needle.  See Twist 3 Video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Foot

2aat – First 28 (31, 37) stitches on Needle #1 will form Right Foot Instep, with next 28 (31, 37) stitches on Needle #1 forming the Left Foot Instep.

All stitches on Needle #2 will form the sole.

dpn – Work appropriate instep design over first 28 (31, 37) stitches with remaining stitches for sole.

 

Foot Design

Round 1.

Right Foot instep – k18 (21, 27), p3, TW3, p3, k1.

Left Foot instep – k1, p3, TW3, p3, k18 (21, 27).

Knit all sole stitches.

 

Round 2.

Right Foot instep – k18 (21, 27), p3, k3, p3, k1.

Left Foot instep – k1, p3, k3, p3, k18 (21, 27).

Knit all sole stitches.

 

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until sock measures 1 ½ (1 ½, 1 ¾)” less than desired length of foot.

 

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Focus Pocus – Part 2

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I hope you had fun with Focus Pocus’ mirror image, two at a time socks!  With the Upper Leg completed, it is time to work the Lower Leg.  As you can see from the above picture, the Upper Leg ribbing moves in opposite directions and away from each other.  In the Lower Leg, the ribbing will move toward each other to create a very cool diamond effect.  It’s interesting to note that if you turn Chart A upside down you will have the chart for the remainder of the leg, but don’t worry, I created a separate Chart B for the Lower Leg to avoid confusion.

When your pair of socks is at the beginning of the round as seen above, it is important to note that the stitches on the right hand side of Needle #1 will form the Right Sock and the stitches on the left hand side of Needle #2 will form the Left Sock.  dpn – First sock worked from beginning of the round will be Right Sock and second sock worked from center line will be Left Sock.

Before beginning the Lower Leg, each size must work three Set Up rounds.  These rounds create a smooth transition from Chart A to Chart B.  The Set Up Rounds consist of working Round 1 from Chart A three times.  These three rounds of knitting will gracefully turn our diamond and will not be knit again.  Once the Set Up is complete, work the twelve Lower Leg rounds in Chart B for the same number of repeats as worked in the Upper Leg except ending the last repeat after Round 10.  For example, if Chart A was worked for three repeats in the Upper Leg, then work Chart B for three repeats ending third repeat after Round 10.  The remaining two rounds in Chart B will be worked during the heel construction.

Before working the heel, I highly recommend placing a lifeline in your socks to safeguard the cuffs should something go awry.  Watch the Lifelines Video for this lifesaving (okay, knit-saving) skill.

Focus Pocus features a short row heel.  I love this heel since it is quick to knit and is worked exactly the same whether knit from the cuff down or toe up.  If you are new to short row heels, I recommend watching my Short Row Heel – Part 1 and Part 2 Videos to become acquainted with this slick technique.  To knit these heels 2aat, the construction is identical and my Two at a Time – Short Row Heel Video will guide you through the logistics.  I have also included special tips in the pattern as well.

Have fun with this week’s clue and get ready for a new stitch in next week’s Foot design!

Part Two

Chart Only Instructions – click here to download

Written + Charted Instructions – click here to download

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

W&T (Wrap & Turn)  See Wrap and Turn Video

On knit side – slip 1, bring yarn to front of work, slip same stitch back to left needle, bring yarn to back of work, turn.

On purl side – slip 1, bring yarn to back of work, slip same stitch back to left needle, bring yarn to front of work, turn.

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IMPORTANT: When viewing 2aat socks at the beginning of the round, the stitches on the right hand side of Needle #1 will form the Right Sock and the stitches on the left hand side of Needle #2 will form the Left Sock.

dpn – First sock worked from beginning of the round will be Right Sock and second sock worked from center line will be Left Sock.

 

Lower Leg

Set Up – All Sizes

Work Round 1 of Chart A (see Part One) over all stitches for 3 rounds.

 

Next, work Chart B  over all stitches as in Part 1.  Repeat 12 rounds of chart the same number of times as in Upper Leg ending last repeat after Round 10.  For example, if Chart A was worked for three repeats in Part 1, then work Chart B for three repeats ending third repeat after Round 10.

(Written row instructions found at the end of this post and in the printable download.)

 Chart B

FPchartB

| Small

| Medium

| Large

| Center Line

(Click on image to enlarge.)

 

Heel

First 28 (31, 37) stitches of each sock will form the instep (top of foot) and second 28 (31, 37) will form the heel.

2aat – See Two At A Time Socks – Short Row Heel Video for tips in knitting both heels at once.

If you are knitting 2aat this is the order in which the socks will be worked:

  • On Right Sock, work Round 11 to center line over instep stitches.
  • On Left Sock, work remainder of Round 11 over instep stitches.
  • Knit heel of Left Sock leaving one wrap to pick up.
  • Knit heel of Right Sock leaving one wrap to pick up.
  • On Right Sock, work Round 12 to center line over instep stitches.
  • On Left Sock, work remainder of Round 12 over instep stitches.
  • Pick up last wrap on Left Sock.  Knit remaining heel stitches.
  • Pick up last wrap on Right Sock.  Knit remaining heel stitches.

See Short Row Heel – Part 1 Video

Work Round 11 of Chart B pattern across all instep stitches.  These stitches will remain unworked during heel construction.  The remaining stitches will form the heel.

dpn – Work Round 11 stitches to the right of the chart’s center line over instep stitches for right sock.  For left sock, work stitches to the left of the red line over the instep stitches.

Work across heel stitches as follows:

Row 1.  Knit to last stitch on heel, W&T.

Row 2.  Purl to last stitch on heel, W&T.

Row 3.  Knit to stitch before wrapped stitch, W&T.

Row 4.  Purl to stitch before wrapped stitch, W&T.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until there are 10 (11, 13) unwrapped center stitches ending after Row 4.  There will be 9 (10, 12) wrapped stitches on each side of the center stitches.

Pick up (unwrap) wrapped stitches as follows:  See Short Row Heel – Part 2 Video

Row 1.  Slip 1, knit to 1st wrapped stitch, lift front leg of wrap from front to back (placing left leg of wrap in front of needle) and knit it together with next stitch through the back loop, turn.

Row 2.  Slip 1, purl to 1st wrapped stitch, lift back leg of wrap from back to front (placing right leg of wrap on front of needle) and purl it together with next stitch, turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 wrapped stitch remains on each side of heel ending after Row 2.

Slip 1, knit across heel stitches and unwrap last stitch on knit side leaving one remaining wrapped stitch on the purl side.  (Do not go back and unwrap!)

2aat – continue with heel on second sock before moving on to next step below.

Work across instep in Round 12 of Chart B design.

Unwrap last remaining wrap on the knit side by lifting wrap on needle (as on previous knit rows) and knit it together with next stitch through the back loop.  Knit remainder of heel stitches.

 

Written Row Instructions – Part 2

Small Set Up

Set Up Round 1.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: (p3, k3) 4 times, p3, k1.  Over second 28 sts: k1, (p3, k3) 4 times, p3.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Set Up Round 2.  Same as Set Up Round 1.

Set Up Round 3.  Same as Set Up Round 1.  Continue with Round 1 of Lower Leg.

Small Lower Leg

Round 1.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: k1, (p3, k3) 4 times, p3.  Over second 28 sts: (p3, k3) 4 times, p3, k1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 2.  Same as Round 1.

Round 3.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: k2, (p3, k3) 4 times, p2. Over second 28 sts: p2, (k3, p3) 4 times, k2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 4.  Same as Round 3.

Round 5.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: (k3, p3) 4 times, k3, p1. Over second 28 sts: p1, (k3, p3) 4 times, k3.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 6.  Same as Round 5.

Round 7.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: p1, (k3, p3) 4 times, k3. Over second 28 sts: (k3, p3) 4 times, k3, p1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 8.  Same as Round 7.

Round 9.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: p2, (k3, p3) 4 times, k2. Over second 28 sts: k2, (p3, k3) 4 times, p2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 10.  Same as Round 9.

Round 11.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: (p3, k3) 4 times, p3, k1. Over second 28 sts: k1, (p3, k3) 4 times, p3.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 12.  Same as Round 11.

Repeat above 12 rounds 1 – 4 times to measure half of the desired leg length, ending the last repeat after Round 10.

 

 

Medium/Large Set Up

Set Up Round 1.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: *k3, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Over second 31(37) sts: k1, *p3, k3; repeat from * to end.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Set Up Round 2.  Same as Set Up Round 1.

Set Up Round 3.  Same as Set Up Round 1.  Continue with Round 1 of Lower Leg.

 

Medium/Large Lower Leg

Round 1.

Needle #1 –Over first 31(37) sts: p1, *k3, p3; repeat from * to end.

Over second 31(37) sts: *p3, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 2.  Same as Round 1.

Round 3.

Needle # 1 – Over first 31(37) sts: p2, *k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Over second 31(37) sts: p2, *k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 4.  Same as Round 3.

Round 5.  

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: *p3, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Over second 31(37) sts: p1, *k3, p3; repeat from * to end.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 6.  Same as Round 5.

Round 7.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: k1, *p3, k3; repeat from * to end.

Over second 31(37) sts: *k3, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 8.  Same as Round 7.

Round 9.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: k2, *p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p3, k2.

Over second 31(37) sts: k2, *p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p3, k2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 10.  Same as Round 9.

Round 11.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: *k3, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Over second 31(37) sts: k1, *p3, k3; repeat from * to end.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 12.  Same as Round 11.

 

Repeat above 12 rounds 1 – 4 times for Medium, and 1 – 3 times for Large to measure half of the desired leg length, ending the last repeat after Round 10.

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Focus Pocus – Part 1

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JanKAL

Happy New Year!  Welcome to the first Progressive Needles Knit Along of 2014 sponsored by Skacel Collection.  I am delighted to have so many knitters return to the KAL and love that we have many first timers with us as well.  Our two at a time sock pattern, Focus Pocus, is brimming with essential techniques, new video lessons and lots of fun with Cobasi yarn to help you complete a pair of socks!  Before we begin, here’s a quick overview of how the KAL works:

  • A portion of the pattern is revealed here every Thursday in January.  The complete pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having your own private knitting tutor!
  • Completed projects are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.

Focus Pocus is a cuff down sock pattern written for two at a time knitting.  I have several reasons for choosing this sock option for our KAL.

  • While many of the recent sock patterns are written for toe up knitting, the vast majority of all sock patterns are knit from the cuff down.  Understanding how to knit a sock from the cuff down will give you the experience to change a cuff down pattern to a toe up sock should you prefer.
  • For the one at a time and cuff down sock knitter, transitioning to Magic Loop and two at a time knitting is the perfect next step before two at a time toe up knitting.
  • Many experienced knitters mistakenly believe that only toe up socks may be knit two at a time.  I love both versions and find it fun to mix it up!
  • Without giving the mystery away, I have written this pattern with the features that toe up sock knitters prefer.

Knitting two socks at once is achieved by using the Magic Loop method.  The Magic Loop uses one long circular needle and eliminates the need for double points.  Most knitters find a 40″ circ to be the perfect length to comfortably hold the stitches for two socks with enough cable length for “looping”.  For those knitters who won’t part with their dear dpns and prefer to knit one at a time, the pattern and video have special tips for you as well – look for the dpn abbreviation throughout the pattern.  If you are new to the Magic Loop, I recommend watching my Magic Loop Video  and practicing the technique with bigger yarn and needles before moving on to two at a time on small needles.

Focus Pocus is available in three sizes – Small, Medium (Average) and Large.  Choose the size best suited for you as determined by your leg circumference.  The foot can be knit to any length.  For example, a Small leg can be knit to a size 10 or a Large to a size 6 or any combination of shoe and leg sizes.  The elasticity of Cobasi will help give you the perfect fit.

As I travel and teach around the country, I hear countless knitters lament over their inability to read charts.  My 2014 New Year’s Resolution is to help knitters become more proficient with chart reading!  The ability to decode a chart is vital in today’s knitting world because it is nearly impossible to find a current publication without one.  Charts are especially popular with publishers because they provide space-saving directions that eliminate the need for lengthy paragraphs.  My new book, Building in Color, feaures written and charted instructions for each pattern to grow your chart reading skills.

A knitting chart is simply a graph with symbols representing the pattern stitches.  The chart portrays the piece when viewed from the right side of the fabric giving the knitter a visual cue to the finished garment.   All charts follow some basic principles.  Each square in a chart represents a stitch.  Each line in the chart represents a row/round of knitting.  A chart for circular knitting, as used in Focus Pocus, displays all numbers on the right hand side of the chart and is read from bottom to top moving from right to left.  See my Charts Video for a full tutorial on chart reading.

I have created a unique charted design for Focus Pocus that allows you to knit two mirror image socks from one chart.  The chart includes all three sizes and illustrates the break between the two socks as it appears on your needles. Due to the simple and unique nature of the pattern, I find the chart much simpler to follow than written instructions.  However, for the novice chart knitter I have provided written row instructions, allowing you to self-check your chart decoding.  Choose to download the shorter Chart Only version or the Chart + Written Row version.  (Experienced chart readers can save paper by eliminating the written row instructions.)  As your confidence grows, you may find yourself among the legion of knitters who prefer charts to written instructions.

My newest video, Focus Pocus – Part One, will explain how to use the chart for two at a time knitting.  Tips for dpn users are also included in the video.  As in all things knitting, the written explanation is much more cumbersome than the video but I will briefly explain below how to work Part One.

Begin by casting on the appropriate number of stitches for both socks.  See Two at a Time Cuff Down Socks Video to get started.  There will be an equal number of stitches on each needle.  The front needle will be known as Needle #1 and the back needle will be known as Needle #2.  Begin knitting Needle #1, starting Round 1 at the appropriate colored size line on the right hand side of the chart.  Work across the chart to the center red line – this will bring you to the end of one sock.  Knit the second sock on Needle #1 with its separate skein of yarn.  Begin this sock at the center red line and end at the appropriate colored size line on the left side of the chart.  Moving to needle #2, work the chart in the EXACT manner as on Needle #1.  Your first round is complete and there are mirror images of the sock on both needles.  (dpn – work chart once over all stitches for sock #1. For sock #2 mirror image, begin each round at the stitch to the left of the center line.)

While this all sounds so complicated, the pattern is really quite easy.  We are knitting a 3 x 3 rib that is broken by one stitch on odd numbered rounds.  Even numbered rounds are simple, just work the stitches as they present themselves – knit the knits and purl the purls.  I promise that the video will have you off to a great start!

Part One of the pattern is for the Upper Leg only!  We are knitting half of the cuff (leg) with this chart.  Please repeat Rounds 1-12 until your cuff reaches half the desired length of your finished leg.  For example, if you wish your leg to measure 6″, then you will work the chart until the Upper Leg measures approx. 3″ remembering to end after Round 12.  Sizes Small and Medium may repeat the 12 rounds up to 4 times and size Large may repeat the 12 rounds up to 3 times with the given yardage.

Whew – it’s on the the knitting!  If you have any questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to ask them here or in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  I monitor both sites daily to help you every step of the way.  I will post a picture of the Upper Leg with next week’s clue.  If you can’t wait until then, many knitters post their photos in the Ravelry group for others to enjoy.  Until next week, happy knitting!

Part One

Chart Only Instructions – Click here to download

Chart + Written Instructions – Click here to download

KPHtemplate_materials

  • 2 skeins, CoBaSi by HiKoo, 50g/220 yards each, 55% cotton, 16% bamboo, 8% silk, 21% elastic nylon
  • US #1 (2.5mm) 40″ circular needle or size necessary to achieve desired gauge.

KPHtemplate_gauge

Approximately 8.5 stitches = 1″ in stockinette.

KPHtemplate_size

Small, Medium and Large.  (Leg and foot length is customizable.  Leg circumference may be further adjusted by altering needle sizes.)

Small – leg circumference measures approximately 6 ½” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 12”.

Medium – leg circumference measures approximately 7” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 13”.

Large – leg circumference measures approximately 9” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 16”.

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

2aat – two at a time.

dpn – double point needles.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium and Large in parentheses when necessary.)

Pattern is written for knitting socks 2aat using the Magic Loop method.  See Magic Loop Video

If knitting with dpns or one at a time, see special tips marked dpn throughout the pattern.

Cast On

See Two at a Time Cuff Down Socks Video

To knit socks two at a time, cast on 56 (62, 74) stitches for each sock using Long Tail Cast On.  112 (124, 148) total stitches will be cast on.

Each sock’s stitches will be divided evenly between the two needles:

Needle #1 will have 28 (31, 37) for each sock.  56 (62, 74) total stitches.

Needle #2 will have 28 (31, 37) for each sock.  56 (62, 74) total stitches.

 

dpn – Cast on 56 (62, 74) stitches for one sock.  Divide stitches between 4 needles as follows:  14/14/14/14 (16/15/15/16, 19/18/18/19)

 

Upper Leg

See Focus Pocus– Part 1 Video for special chart reading, 2aat and dpn tips.

Work Chart A over all stitches as follows:

Work Row 1 of chart over all 56 (62, 74) stitches on Needle #1. (Red Center Line on chart indicates break between the two socks.)

Work Row 1 of chart over all 56 (62, 74) stitches on Needle #2. (Red Center Line on chart indicates break between the two socks.)

Round 1 is complete.

Continue working chart in this manner until Upper Leg measures half the total desired length of sock leg ending after Round 12.

Size Small and Medium may work up to 4 repeats (48 rounds) of Chart A in Upper Leg.

Size Large may work up to 3 repeats (36 rounds) of Chart A in Upper Leg.

For example:

If an approximate 6″ leg is desired and each 12 round repeat measure 1″, work 3 repeats of Chart A for Upper Leg to measure 3″.

dpn

  • For First Sock, work Chart A over all 56 (62, 74) stitches.
  • For Second Sock, work Chart A beginning with the stitch left of the Red Center Line over all 56 (62, 74) stitches.  If following written instructions, begin round with second 28 (31, 37) stitches.  

Chart A

conjchartAvert

| Small

| Medium

 | Large

| Center Line

(Click on chart image to enlarge.)

Written Row Instructions

Small

Round 1.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: (p3, k3) 4 times, p3, k1.  Over second 28 sts: k1, (p3, k3) 4 times, p3.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 2.  Same as Round 1.

Round 3.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts:  p2, (k3, p3) 4 times, k2. Over second 28 sts: k2, (p3, k3) 4 times, p2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 4.  Same as Round 3.

Round 5.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: p1, (k3, p3) 4 times, k3. Over second 28 sts: (k3, p3) 4 times, k3, p1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 6.  Same as Round 5.

Round 7.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: (k3, p3) 4 times, k3, p1. Over second 28 sts: p1, (k3, p3) 4 times, k3.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 8.  Same as Round 7.

Round 9.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: k2, (p3, k3) 4 times, p2. Over second 28 sts: p2, (k3, p3) 4 times, k2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 10.  Same as Round 9.

Round 11.

Needle #1 – Over first 28 sts: k1, (p3, k3) 4 times, p3. Over second 28 sts: (p3, k3) 4 times, p3, k1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 12.  Same as Round 11.

Repeat above 12 rounds 1 – 4 times to measure half of the desired leg length, ending the last repeat after Round 12.

 

Medium and Large

Round 1.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: *k3, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Over second 31(37) sts: k1, *p3, k3; repeat from * to end.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 2.  Same as Round 1.

Round 3.

Needle # 1 – Over first 31(37) sts: k2, *p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p3, k2.

Over second 31(37) sts:  k2, *p3, k3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p3, k2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 4.  Same as Round 3.

Round 5.  

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: k1, *p3, k3; repeat from * to end.

Over second 31(37) sts: *k3, p3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 6.  Same as Round 5.

Round 7.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: *p3, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Over second 31(37) sts: p1, *k3, p3; repeat from * to end.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 8.  Same as Round 7.

Round 9.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: p2, *k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Over second 31(37) sts: p2, *k3, p3; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k3, p2.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 10.  Same as Round 9.

Round 11.

Needle #1 – Over first 31(37) sts: p1, *k3, p3; repeat from * to end.

Over second 31(37) sts: *p3, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, p1.

Needle #2 – same as Needle #1.

Round 12.  Same as Round 11.

 

Repeat above 12 rounds 1 – 4 times for Medium, and 1 – 3 times for Large to measure half of the desired leg length, ending the last repeat after Round 12.

 

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