I hope you enjoyed the introduction to color work and two handed knitting in Disappearing Act!

The Progressive Needles Knit Along will be on a short hiatus.  Subscribe to my newsletter to receive updates on the upcoming NEW projects for the series.  The knitting education continues with more patterns, techniques, yarns, videos and FUN!

Not sure what to knit while you are waiting?  Continue to grow your knitting skills with my new book, Building Blocks.  This skill building series is a carefully designed sequence that covers the major knitting principles as you knit 12 lovely squares.  Each square, or block, builds upon the skills of the previous square as you knit your way to a gorgeous sampler afghan.  All of the skills are supported with the video lessons you have come to rely on from Knit Purl Hunter.

Look for Building Blocks at your Local Yarn Shop or click on the following logos to shop now!

Our beautiful color work sock is complete and now we are ready for the Afterthought Heel!  Watch “Afterthought Heel – Part 2 and Part 3” Videos to finish these delightful socks.  Part 2 will assist you in picking up the heel stitches and removing the waste yarn.  Part 3 demonstrates picking up stitches to close the gaps and the decrease round.

Disappearing Act has the added bonus of a striped Afterthought Heel.  A striped heel makes the most out of the remaining yarn yardage while giving our socks a whimsical touch.  The striped heel also provides an opportunity to study knitting stripes in the round.

Many of us think of rounds of circular knitting as being like a stack of disks piled one on top of the other.  Actually, rounds of knitting form a continuous spiral.  Because of the spiral effect, pattern changes (such as stripes) create an interruption to the design at the beginning of the round.  These “jogs” disrupt the smooth lines of stripes.  Disappearing Act’s heel uses a neat little trick to soften this jog and give the stripes a seamless look.  Watch my “Jogless Stripes” Video to learn how to minimize this pattern interruption.  This technique is wonderful to use in any striped circular knitting project.

Tune in tomorrow for a photo of the completed socks.

Part Four

Click here to download printable version

JS (Jogless Stripe) - slip as if to purl the 1^st stitch of previous color (one round below) and bring leg up to left needle.  Knit both colors together.   See “Jogless Stripes” Video

k2tog – knit two together.  See “k2tog” Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See “ssk” Video

Afterthought Heel

Note:  Heel may be worked using double points, two circs or magic loop method.

See “Afterthought Heel – Part 2” Video

With toe pointed downward and using a double point or circular needle, pick up the right leg of each stitch below the waste yarn. There will be 32(36,40) stitches on this needle.

With toe pointed upward, pick up the right leg of each stitch below the waste yarn using a second double point or the circular needle after it has been pulled through the lower stitches.  There will be 32(36,40) stitches on the second needle.

Carefully remove waste yarn to create opening for heel.

First 32(36,40) stitches picked up will be the “lower stitches”.  Second 32(36,40) stitches will be the “upper stitches”.  If using double points, divide the stitches evenly onto four needles.

See “Afterthought Heel – Part 3” Video

Work the following rounds to form striped heel.  Each round is for all sizes unless indicated.  The Decrease Round found in Round 2 is worked the same in all of the following decrease rounds.

1.  Begin round by joining Color B to first stitch of lower stitches.  Knit 32(36,40).  Pick up and knit 2 stitches in gap (“ditch”) between lower and upper stitches.  Knit 32(36,40).  Pick up and knit 2 stitches in gap (“ditch”) between upper and lower stitches.  Total of 68(76,84) stitches.

2.  With Color B, work Decrease Round:

On lower stitches: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 lower stitches, k2tog, k1.

On upper stitches: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 upper stitches, k2tog, k1.  64(72,80) stitches.

3.  With Color B – Decrease Round.  60(68,76) stitches.

4.  With Color B – Sizes Small and Medium: knit.

Size Large: Decrease Round.  72 stitches.

5.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  56(64,68) stitches.

6.  With Color A – JS, knit to end of round.

7.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  52(60,64) stitches.

8.  With Color A – Knit.

9.  With Color B – Decrease Round.  48(56,60) stitches.

10.  With Color B – JS, knit to end of round.

11.  With Color B – Decrease Round.  44(52, 56) stitches.

12.  With Color B – Knit.

13.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  40(48,52) stitches.

14.  With Color A – JS, knit to end of round.

15.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  36(44,48) stitches.

16.  With Color A – Knit.

17.  With Color B – Decrease Round.  32(40,44) stitches.

18.  With Color B – JS, knit to end of round.

19.  With Color B – Decrease Round.  28(36,40) stitches.

20.  With Color B – Knit.

21.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  24(32,36) stitches.

22.  With Color A – JS, knit to end of round.

23.  With Color A – Decrease Round.  20(28,32) stitches.  Size Small only:  cut yarn leaving an 18” tail.  Close opening using Kitchener Stitch.

24.  With Color A – Sizes Medium and Large: Knit

25.  With Color A – Sizes Medium and Large: Decrease Round.  (24,28) stitches.  Cut yarn leaving an 18” tail.  Close opening using Kitchener Stitch.  See “Kitchener Stitch” Video

Knitting socks is a lot like childbirth.

Once you see how beautiful they are

You forget all about the labor!

©2012 Michelle Hunter

www.knitpurlhunter.com

Coming Soon!

Progressive Needles Knit Along continues…

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I trust you are gaining speed and ease in two-color/two-handed knitting with the completion of Part Two.  Part Three concludes the sock all except for the Afterthought Heel.

Some of you have placed the waste yarn for the heel in Section II of the design.  Today’s clue reveals Section III and IV allowing everyone to finish the foot and leg while knitting the waste yarn in its proper location for the anticipated heel.  As a reminder, the waste yarn should be placed 2 ¼” from the end of the foot.  It is very important to place the waste yarn at the conclusion of an odd numbered round so that the stitches above the waste yarn will be in a solid color.  I have included the instructions for the waste yarn placement again in this post for your convenience.

Enjoy the pattern as the main color disappears into the contrasting color!

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

Foot/Leg

IMPORTANT:  Continue to work Foot, maintaining two-color design (below), until it measures 2 ¼” less than desired length ending after an odd numbered round.

Place waste yarn for Afterthought Heel as follows:

K32(36,40) with waste yarn.  Return these stitches to the left hand needle.  Continue knitting in established design pattern beginning with an even numbered row.  See “Afterthought Heel – Part 1” Video

After inserting the waste yarn, the remaining rounds will form the leg.

Section III – Work these 4 rounds 8(7,6) times.

Round 1.  *1A, 1B; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2.  Knit B.

Round 3.  *1B, 1A; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4.  Knit B.

Section IV – Work these 4 rounds 8(7,6) times.

Round 1.  *3B, 1A; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2.  Knit B.

Round 3.  1B, 1A, *3B, 1A; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2B.

Round 4.  Knit B.

Cuff

Using Color B, decrease as follows:  *K6(7,8) k2tog; repeat from * to end.  56(64,72) stitches.

Continuing with Color B, work a k2, p2 rib for 8 rounds.

Bind off using Sewn Bind Off Method.  See “Sewn Bind Off” Video

STOP!

Next week’s final clue brings the Afterthought Heel. Because I will be traveling to Stitches West next week,  the last clue will be released on Wednesday, February 22.   Happy knitting!

Our toe is complete and Section I of the design has been revealed.  Whether you are knitting with one hand or two, I hope you are enjoying the introduction to color work.

This week’s clue not only brings you Section II of the design, but another surprise as well.  Disappearing Act will include an Afterthought Heel!  Although we will not get to the actual heel construction until the sock is complete (hence the name), we need to set the stage for its placement.

In our pattern, the Afterthought Heel will be placed 2 ¼” from the end of the foot.  One strategy to find this location is to place the sock on the foot and stop knitting when the sock is 2 ¼” from the back of the heel.  (A great reason to knit with circular needles.)  Another option is to measure the entire length of the foot, from tip of toe to back of heel, and subtract 2 ¼” from this number.  (This works for double point knitters.)

Once the location of the heel is identified, a piece of waste yarn is knit into the sock.  This waste yarn should be in a contrasting color for easy viewing.  The waste yarn should be smooth for easy removal later.  A yarn with fuzzy fibers is difficult to separate from the work.

It is VERY important to place the waste yarn after completing an odd numbered round.  This allows for a round of solid color knitting, an even numbered round, to follow the placement of the waste yarn.  A solid row above the Afterthought Heel is more stable and lends itself to a tidy transition when the waste yarn is later removed.  The curious aspect of the heel is that the color work below the waste yarn has no bearing on the appearance of the heel stitches.

If you are lucky enough to have a petite foot, you may be placing the waste yarn for the heel somewhere in Section II.  I knit the Medium Size for my size 8 foot.  My waste yarn was placed in Section III.  If you are like me, you will have to wait until next week’s clue to place the waste yarn at the correct location.  Whenever you are ready for the waste yarn, watch the “Afterthought Heel – Part 1” Video to guide you through this step.

As you move past the waste yarn, the remainder of the sock will form the leg.  Take the time to check the fit at this point.  If you would like a wider leg, go up one needle size at this juncture to gain a bigger leg circumference.  Changing needle sizes at this point will be nearly invisible to the eye.

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

IMPORTANT:  Work Foot, maintaining two-color design, until it measures 2 ¼” less than desired length ending after an odd numbered round.  For most knitters this placement may occur in Section II (below) or Section III (next week’s clue).

Place waste yarn for Afterthought Heel as follows:

K32(36,40) with waste yarn.  Return these stitches to the left hand needle.  Continue knitting in established design pattern beginning with an even numbered row.  See “Afterthought Heel – Part 1” Video

Section II – Work these 4 rounds 8(7,6) times.

Round 1.  *1A, 1B; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2.  Knit A.

Round 3.  *1B, 1A; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4.  Knit A.

STOP!

Next’s week’s clue finishes the design.  Happy knitting!

Welcome back to sock knitting with the Progressive Needles KAL!  This month’s project brings us two-color knitting in a toe up sock using the lovely hues of Royal by Austermann.  I am a huge fan of color work and after knitting this pattern you will be, too!

Disappearing Act begins with simple toe up construction.  If you are new to toe up socks, watch my #1 video, “Judy’s Magic Cast On”. Before starting, you will need to decide which color to designate as Color A – the toe color.  There is NO right or wrong choice.  For my sample, I chose the light color as Color A and the dark color as Color B.  My dozens of test knitters chose a multitude of color combinations and they were all equally fabulous.

Upon completion of the toe, this week’s clue continues with the beginning of the color work pattern.  Disappearing Act is a stranded knitting color pattern.  Stranded knitting, often referred to as Fair-Isle knitting, is a technique generally worked in stockinette with no more than two colors in a row.  I have created a clever yet simple pattern to introduce you to the wide range of design possibilities.

Disappearing Act is available in three sizes – Small, Medium and Large.  Stranded knitting requires more yarn than single color stockinette.  This pattern allows for an interesting play of color well within the yardage limit of two 50 gram skeins.  The finished length of the sock, measured from the tip of the toe and up the front of the foot/leg to the cuff, is determined by the number of stitches in each round. (See Size info below.)  A Small sock has fewer stitches per round allowing for more repeats of the design within the yardage.  A Large sock has more stitches per round allowing for less repeats of the design within the yardage.  I wanted to provide you with a pattern that introduced you to stranded knitting while using a frugal amount of yarn.  If you prefer a longer sock, more yardage will be needed.

Stranded knitting is executed with the yarns held in one hand or two.  For One-Handed stranding, knit with one color to the color change.  Drop the working yarn and bring the new color over the top of the dropped yarn.  Continue knitting to the next color change and repeat the process.

Like traditional European knitters, I prefer to work stranded knitting with the Two-Handed method.  This method combines the Continental and Western styles of knitting.  The left hand holds one color of yarn to be “picked” while the right hand throws the other color of yarn.  As a lifelong Western-style knitter (thrower), this was groundbreaking stuff!  I was pleasantly surprised how speedy I became at this combined method after just a few rounds.  Watch my “Two Handed Two Color Knitting” Video to take your knitting to the next level.   I strongly encourage you to try this slick technique.

The challenge in stranded knitting is to maintain an even tension as you alternate between the two colors.  The strands across the wrong side of the fabric mustn’t be too tight or it will cause the fabric to pucker.  Conversely, if the strands are too loose it will leave large loops on the wrong side that may snag when wearing.  An even tension leaves the strands on the wrong side (as seen below) laying gently over the stitches providing an extra layer of warmth.  A bit of practice will have your tension even and smooth.

Stranded knitting leaves a firm fabric with little stretch.  To accommodate this characteristic, the stitch count is increased after the toe prior to the color work.  I highly recommend inserting a Lifeline after the toe.  Upon completion of Section I, measure the width of your sock and evaluate its size compared to your foot.  Should you need to change the size or adjust the needles, it becomes quite easy to take your work back to the lifeline at the toe.  See my “Lifelines” Video to learn this essential knitting skill.

Lastly, changing needles sizes is very common among stranded knitters AND sock knitters.  One size may work for the toe and/or foot while a larger size may give the needed room for the leg.  Experiment, measure and implement a lifeline for a successful fit!

Part One

Click here to download printable version

One skein Royal by Austermann, 50g / 219 yards, (Color A)

One skein Royal by Austermann, 50g / 219 yards, in a contrasting color (Color B)

US#1 (2.5mm) needles or size necessary to achieve desired gauge.  Pattern may be knit with double points, two circular knitting method or magic loop.  See “Magic Loop” Video

8.5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette.

Women’s Small, Medium and Large.  Additional size adjustments may be made by altering needle sizes.

Small leg circumference measures approximately 7” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 10”. Finished length measured along top of foot from toe to cuff is 13½”.

Medium leg circumference measures approximately 7¾” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 11”.  Finished length measured along top of foot from toe to cuff is 12½”.

Large leg circumference measures approximately 8½” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 12½”. Finished length measured along top of foot from toe to cuff is 11½”.

A – Color A

B – Color B (contrasting color)

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch.  See “kfb” Video

Note:   Directions are for Small Size (Medium, Large Size in parentheses when necessary).  When knitting from patterns with multiple sizes, use a highlighter to mark the numbers that pertain to your size.

TOE

Cast On – See “Judy’s Magic Cast On” Video

With Color A and using two needles, cast on 20(24,24) stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast On with 10(12,12) stitches on each needle.

Securing tail, knit first 10(12,12) stitches.

Knit second 10(12,12) stitches through the back loop.

Toe Increases

If using one or two circular needle knitting method, increases (kfb) are made at the beginning and end of each needle as follows:

Round 1.  On 1^st needle, kfb, knit to last stitch on needle, kfb;

On 2^nd needle, kfb, knit to last stitch on needle, kfb.

Round 2.  Knit all stitches.

If using double points, arrange stitches evenly with 5(6,6) stitches on 4 needles.  Increases (kfb) are made as follows:

Round 1.  Kfb, knit to last stitch on 2^nd needle, kfb, kfb into 1^st stitch on 3^rd needle, knit to last stitch on 4^th needle, kfb.

Round 2.  Knit all stitches.

All needle types:  Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until toe reaches 56(64,72) stitches.

*I recommend placing a lifeline after the toe to allow for easy changes in size if needed.  See “Lifelines” Video

FOOT

Increase 8 stitches evenly in next round as follows:  *K6(7,8), kfb; repeat from * to end of round.  64(72,80) stitches

Knit remainder of sock following Two-Color Pattern beginning with Section I, found below.  Work this section the recommended number of repeats.

ALL stitches are worked in the knit stitch.  See “Two Handed Two Color Knitting” Video

Two-Color Pattern

Section I  – Work these 4 rounds 8(7,6) times.  A total of 32(28,24) rounds.

Round 1.  *3A, 1B; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2.  Knit A.

Round 3.  1A, 1B, *3A, 1B; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, 2A.

Round 4.  Knit A.

STOP!

Take the time to ensure that the sock provides a good fit.  If needed, take knitting back to the lifeline and reknit making a different size or changing needle sizes.

Happy knitting!

With our hand complete, it is time to turn our attention to the thumb.  We have created a nice resting place for our thumb with a full-fashioned gusset.  A few quick rounds and you can wear your toasty warm beauties.

I have a very popular video to help you, titled “Thumb”, that I created as a generic guide to all thumb knitting.  Since many of you are first time mitten knitters, I created a “Winter Buzz Thumb” video that is specific to this pattern.  The new video contains the same techniques without the confusion of trying to adapt to a different stitch count.  I welcome your feedback as I am always striving to create better videos.

As promised, I have several patterns to help you use any leftover Simpliworsted yarn.  At the bottom of this post, I will tease you with a pattern featuring two Winter Buzz hat versions available in the Pattern Store on my website.  Also, try the FREE pattern for Classic Cable Napkin Rings that uses leftover Simpliworsted yarn.

Check back tomorrow for a photo of the completed mittens.

Part Four

Click here to download printable version

Thumb – Mitten

Place first 6 stitches from stitch holder onto a double point needle.  This will be Needle #1.

Place last 6 stitches from stitch holder onto a second double point needle.  This will be Needle #2.

With a third double point needle, pick up one stitch in “ditch” on left side of thumb opening (area between Needle #2 and the backward loop cast on stitches), pick up 2 stitches above thumb opening (former backward loop cast on stitches), and one stitch in “ditch” on right side of thumb opening (area between the backward loop cast on stitches and Needle #1).  There are 4 stitches on Needle #3 for a total of 16 thumb stitches.

Beginning round at Needle #1, join yarn leaving a 12” tail.

Knit 12, (k2tog) twice.  14 thumb stitches.

Knit all 14 stitches until thumb reaches halfway up thumbnail.

Decrease thumb as follows:

*k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog.  (9 stitches)

*k2tog; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.  (5 stitches)

Break yarn and thread through loop and pull tight to close.

Weave in ends using thumb tail to close any remaining gaps in thumb gusset.

Thumb – Fingerless Mitt

Work same as Mitten Thumb, except ending when thumb reaches halfway up thumb or to desired length.  Do not decrease.

Bind off loosely.

Weave in ends using thumb tail to close any remaining gaps in thumb gusset.

Cool Hands = Warm Heart

Warm Mittens = Cool Knitting Chick

©2012 Michelle Hunter

Winter Buzz Hats

Pattern includes two versions knit with Simpliworsted – Slouchy and Watch Cap.  Slouchy version uses approximately 140g and Watch Cap version uses approximately 90g.  See the Pattern Store for details.

Classic Cable Napkin Rings

Turn your leftover yarn into a chic table accessory.  Download your FREE pattern today!

KAL continues on February 2nd!

Join us next month as the Progressive Needles KAL continues with two-color sock knitting in Disappearing Act.  This toe up pattern features great techniques and a heel new to the series.  Disappearing Act uses two skeins of Royal sock yarn – one for the main color and one for the contrasting color.  Pair your favorite colors and let the fun begin.  Sample was knit on US#1 (2.5mm) needles with a gauge of 8.5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette.

Don’t you just love the honeycomb pattern over the top of the hand?  I am always amazed at the gorgeous designs that are created using simple cables.  Tell all your non-knitting friends that this was insanely difficult and that you are pretty much a genius.  It will be our secret that cabling is so easy!

Today’s clue has us decreasing for the top of the mitten.  Nothing can strike fear in the hearts of knitters more than the phrase, “decrease in pattern”.  The knitter is left to wonder how to decrease, where to decrease and how exactly to maintain the established pattern.  Have no fear!  I have taken all the guess work out for you by providing directions for each stitch in the decrease process.

As you work through each round, I hope you will come to understand the strategies used to maintain the cable design while decreasing stitches.  In Winter Buzz, the stitches are decreased every other round.  When the cable row presents itself, sometimes there are not enough stitches to form the outer four-stitch cables.  It is in these instances that a bit of cable knowledge is helpful.

When decreasing in pattern, it is sometimes necessary to form a cable with fewer stitches than the “normal” amount worked throughout the cable pattern.  When faced with this dilemma, remember this tip:

• The stitches in the cable that deviate from the “normal” stitch count of the cable should be hidden in the back of the work behind the cross of the cable.  The stitches in the front of the cable should have the same stitch count as the rest of the cables in the pattern.

Here are some examples:

• It is time to work a four-stitch cable with stitches held to the back (C4B).  However, there are only three stitches remaining.  Hold one stitch to the back and knit two stitches from the left hand needle.  Knit the held stitch.  A three-stitch cable was formed.  Because the deviation from the usual stitch count (one stitch held in back instead of two) is hidden behind the cross of the cable, it is nearly undetectable.

• It is time to work a four-stitch cable with stitches held to the front (C4F).  However, there are only three stitches remaining.  Hold two stitches to the front and knit one stitch from the left hand needle.  Knit the held stitches.  A three-stitch cable was formed.  Because the deviation from the usual stitch count (one stitch knit from left hand needle instead of two) is hidden behind the cross of the cable, it is nearly undetectable.

Store this cable know-how away for future patterns to create a professional look to your garment shaping.  Meanwhile, in Winter Buzz, simply follow the pattern directions below to master this discriminating treatment.  There are separate instructions for mittens that ended after Round 4 and for those ended after Round 8.  Be sure to follow the appropriate decrease rounds for your mitten.

Once your mitten top is shaped, close the opening with the Kitchener Stitch.  This seamless grafting stitch is a useful skill every knitter should possess.  Watch my “Kitchener Stitch” Video to learn this great finishing technique.

For the fingerless mitts, no decreasing is needed in the cable pattern.  Look for the simple cuff directions at the end of this clue and get ready for next week’s thumb.

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

k2tog – knit two together.  See “k2tog” Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See “ssk” Video

Top of Mitten

Decrease in pattern using appropriate instructions for Hand ended after Round 4 (below) or Round 8 (following).

If Hand ended after Round 4:

1.  Top of Hand:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  Palm:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  (44 stitches)

2.  Top of Hand:  sl 2 to cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn, (C4B, C4F) twice, sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn.  Palm:  knit.

3.  Same as 1.  (40 stitches)

4.  Knit all stitches.

5.  Same as 1.  (36 stitches)

6.  Top of Hand:  k1, (C4F, C4B) twice, k1.  Palm:  knit.

7.  Same as 1.  (32 stitches)

8.  Knit all stitches.

9.  Same as 1.  (28 stitches)

10.  Top of Hand:  sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn, C4F, C4B, sl 2 to cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn.  Palm:  knit.

11.  Same as 1.   (24 stitches)

Close top of mitten using Kitchener Stitch.  See “Kitchener Stitch” Video

If Hand ended after Round 8:

1.  Top of Hand:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  Palm:  k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1.  (44 stitches)

2.  Top of Hand:  sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn, (C4F, C4B) twice, sl 2 to cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn.  Palm:  knit.

3.  Same as 1.  (40 stitches)

4.  Knit all stitches.

5.  Same as 1.  (36 stitches)

6.  Top of Hand:  k1, (C4B, C4F) twice, k1.  Palm:  knit.

7.  Same as 1.  (32 stitches)

8.  Knit all stitches.

9.  Same as 1.  (28 stitches)

10.  Top of Hand:  sl 2 to cn and hold in front, k1, k2 from cn, C4B, C4F, sl 1 to cn and hold in back, k2, k1 from cn.  Palm:  knit.

11.  Same as 1.  (24 stitches)

Close top of mitten using Kitchener Stitch.  See “Kitchener Stitch” Video

 Fingerless Mitt Top Cuff

Using smaller size needles, decrease 6 stitches in the next round as follows:

*(k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1) 3 times, k2 p1: repeat from  * to end of round.  (42 stitches)

Work a k2, p1 rib for 3 rounds.

Bind off in pattern.  See “Bind Off in Pattern” Video

STOP!

We will knit our thumbs in next week’s clue.  Happy knitting!

Are you enjoying the lofty softness of Simpliworsted in your cuff?  Now it’s time to get to the real fun!  Today’s clue has us adding one of my favorite cable stitch patterns.  This classic design makes for a beautiful and interesting knit that only looks complicated.

The cable design will be worked over the top of the hand with the palm remaining in stockinette.  The simple palm allows us to easily insert a full fashioned thumb gusset.  The use of the Make One Left and the Make One Right gives our thumb a sophisticated opening.  The pattern directs you to begin the thumb shaping at the base of the thumb.  The base of your thumb is the lowest joint, or knuckle, at the bottom of your thumb.

The directions for this clue are the same for both the mitten and fingerless mitt versions except for the length.  Mitten knitters will stop 1 ¾” from the top of the hand (tallest finger).  Fingerless mitt knitters will stop 1” less than the total desired length – generally about 6” to 7” from the cast on edge.

A few reminders:

• Switch to the larger size needles after the Increase Round.
• Work the appropriate thumb directions for the left and right hand.

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

C4B – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle.  See “Cables” Video

C4F – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See “Cables” Video

cn – cable needle.

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch.  See “kfb” Video

M1L (Make One Left) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back.  Knit the lifted strand through the back.  See “Make One” Video

M1R (Make One Right) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front.  Knit the lifted strand through the front.  See “Make One” Video

sl – slip.

Hand

Increase round:

*(k2, p1, kfb, k1, p1) 3 times, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.  (48 stitches)

First 24 stitches of round form Top of Hand.  Second 24 stitches of round form the Palm.

Change to larger size needles.  Work Cable Pattern (see below) over Top of Hand and stockinette (all knit) over Palm stitches for 16 rounds, or to base of thumb, ending after an even numbered row.

Cable Pattern

1.  Knit.

2.  *C4B, C4F; repeat from *.

3.  Knit.

4.  Knit.

5.  Knit.

6.  *C4F, C4B; repeat from *.

7.  Knit.

8.  Knit.

Right Mitten Only

Work pattern across Top of Hand.

On Palm stitches:  k2, place marker, M1R, k2, M1L, place marker, knit to the end of the round.

There are 4 Thumb Gusset stitches between the markers.

Next Round:  Work in pattern across Top of Hand and knit across all Palm and Thumb Gusset stitches.

Left Mitten Only

Work pattern across Top of Hand.

On Palm stitches:  k20, place marker, M1R, k2, M1L, place marker, knit to end of round.

There are 4 Thumb Gusset stitches between the markers.

Next Round:  Work in pattern across Top of Hand and knit across all Palm and Thumb Gusset stitches.

BOTH Mittens

While continuing to knit in established pattern, increase 2 Thumb Gusset stitches every other round as follows:

Round 1.  Pattern across Top of Hand.  On Palm: knit to 1^st marker, slip marker, M1R, knit to 2^nd marker, M1L, slip marker, knit to end of round.

Round 2.  Pattern over Top of Hand.  Knit all Palm stitches with no increases.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until there are 12 stitches between the markers.

Next Round:  Pattern across Top of Hand.  Knit to 1^st marker.  Place 12 Thumb Gusset stitches on a stitch holder removing markers.  Cast on 2 stitches onto Right Hand needle using Backward Loop Cast On.  (See “Backward Loop Cast On” Video)  Knit to end of round.

Mittens Only:  Continue knitting in established pattern until mitten reaches 1 ¾” less than desired length, measured from top of tallest finger, ending after Round 4 or 8 of Cable Pattern.

Fingerless Mitts Only: Continue knitting in established pattern until mitt reaches 1” less than the total desired length, generally about 6” to 7” from the cast on edge, ending after Round 4 or 8 of cable pattern.

STOP!

Next week’s clue will have us finishing the mitten tops with a discriminating touch.  Happy knitting!

Happy New Year and welcome back to the Progressive Needles Knit Along sponsored by Skacel!  We kick off 2012 with a toasty warm mitten pattern using the deliciously soft and durable Simpliworsted.  As always, this project is full of tips, techniques and videos to increase your knitting know-how.

Mittens get their warmth from good wool that is knit on needles smaller than the size recommended by the yarn.  This firm gauge keeps the wind out and helps to retain the body’s heat.  Simpliworsted is especially nice since its cushy loft allows for the use of different needle sizes while still maintaining a beautiful stitch definition.  (It doesn’t hurt that it is machine washable, too!)

Winter Buzz is designed to fit the average woman’s hand.  The length of the mitten will be customized in Part Two by matching the knitting to the height of your hand.  The circumference may be adjusted by altering the needle sizes.  The pattern and the yarn easily adapt to smaller or larger needles.

Because hand lengths vary greatly, the yardage each knitter uses for the mittens will vary as well.  My hands are on the small side and I just needed a small portion of my second skein of yarn.  Having the second skein provides ample yardage to accommodate longer hands and a longer cuff for those who like more wrist coverage.  If you are choosing to knit fingerless mitts, one skein should do the trick.  I will reveal several patterns to use with your leftover Simpliworsted at the conclusion of Winter Buzz. 

In Part One, we will be knitting the cuff of our mittens.  The cuff is knit with a nice firm rib to keep the drafts away.  I recommend casting on for the cuff using the German Twisted Cast On.  This variation of the Long Tail Cast On is a bit firmer and will help the cuff hug your wrist.  This cast on is not crucial to the design but it is a great skill to add to your knitting repertoire.  I substitute it for the Long Tail method in most projects because I favor its clean line.  Check out the “German Twisted Cast On” Video to learn this sophisticated technique.

Part One

Click here to download printable version

• 2 skeins Simpliworsted, 55% Merino Superwash/28% Acrylic/17% Nylon, 100g/140 yards each.
• US #5 (3.75mm) AND #7 (4.5mm) 6” double points (see NOTE below) or size necessary to achieve desired gauge.
• Cable needle
• Stitch holder
• Markers

NOTE:  Mittens hands may also be knit with two 24” circular needles or one 32” circular needle for Magic Loop method.  See “Magic Loop” Video.  Sample was knit using the Magic Loop method on 32” addi Lace needles.  For thumb, #7 double points are recommended.

5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on larger size needles.

Women’s Average – Size may be adjusted by changing needle sizes.

Finished wrist circumference:  approximately 6” unstretched and will comfortably stretch up to 10”.

Finished hand circumference:  approximately 8” unstretched and will comfortably stretch up to 10”.

Finished length:  10” (may be adjusted).

Cuff

With smaller needles, cast on 42 stitches using German Twisted Cast On method.  See “German Twisted Cast On” Video

Divide stitches evenly between needles and join in the round taking care not to twist the stitches.

Work a k2, p1 rib for 20 rounds or until cuff reaches desired length.

STOP!

Next week’s clue brings a great cable pattern for the hand.  Happy knitting!

We have a weekly prize winner!!!  Congratulations to Pat G.!  This week’s clue was posted right here.  The remaining weekly clues will be a bit harder to find.  Look on the Skacel and Knit Purl Hunter sites on various days for your best chance to win.  Here is what this week’s clue looked like:

Wondering about those hidden clues to win a weekly prize?  Here is a clue hidden in plain sight for you!  Be the first to email info@knitpurlhunter.com with “Happy 2012 KAL” in the subject line and you will win this week’s prize.

Thanks to all emailed me!

Thank you so much for knitting with me!  Another big thank you to our sponsor, Skacel, for providing fabulous prizes to all our loyal knitters!

Please join me in January as the Progressive Needles KAL continues with Winter Buzz, a delightfully fun mitten pattern.  This toasty mitten features cables, a full-fashioned thumb gusset and more.  (Our warm weather friends may opt for fingerless mitts.)

Winter Buzz uses Simpliworsted yarn for a soft and washable mitten.  If you enjoyed Simplicity in the Triplicity shawlette you will adore its plump sister!  The mittens use 2 skeins of Simpliworsted and US #5 and #7 needles with a gauge of 5 stitches per inch on larger size needles.