Crimple – Part 2


crimple2  crimple3

I hope you enjoyed knitting Crimple’s ribbed toe!  The upper photo shows the instep (top of the foot) and the lower photo shows the sole (bottom of the foot).  Part Two brings us the Foot with an instep design that flows right out of the toe.

Crimple’s instep will be graced with a ribbed lace.  At first glance the chart may look daunting, but once you start the pattern you will quickly get into its rhythm and find it simple yet interesting – my favorite kind of stitch pattern!  If you are new to charts, circular charts are read from bottom to top (beginning with Row 1) and from right to left.  My Charts Video will give you a quick tutorial.  Please note that the first 5 minutes of the video are devoted to charts for flat knitting and charts for circular knitting (as used here) begin at the 6:00 mark.  When I am knitting from a chart I find it helpful to use either highlighter tape or a sticky note (pictured below) to keep me on track.


I prefer to knit from a chart with a large font.  Because of space constraints, most publications are forced to reduce the size of their charts making them difficult to read.  I routinely enlarge these small-sized charts for my own use.  Lucky for you that I created large, individual charts for each size of Crimple.  In an effort to reduce the number of pages to print, each size has its own printable copy to download.  This one page version contains only the basic information and is perfect to tuck into your knitting bag.  The abbreviations and related videos are listed here online.  I hope you will enjoy using less paper.  Rest assured that at the conclusion of the KAL, a condensed and traditional version of Crimple will be available with all sizes and charts in one download.

The chart will be worked over the first half of the stitches – flowing up from the ribbed side of the toe.  The sole, second half of the stitches, will remain in stockinette (all knit).  Work the chart up the instep until the foot is 2″ less than the desired length ending after any even numbered row (no need to finish a chart repeat).  To measure the stopping point, simply try on your sock and stop when the sock is 2″ shy from the back of your heel.  (If you are knitting for someone else, ask for the length of their foot and subtract 2″.)  It is at this point that we will begin the heel in next week’s clue.

Lace knitting is created with yarn over increases that are paired with decreases.  Yarn overs form the hallmark holes in lace and the decreases restore the stitch count.  Yarn overs can cause plenty of confusion for knitters.  This simple little increase can be executed in several ways.

  • Western-style knitters (working yarn held in right hand) create a yarn over in two different ways.  When the stitch following the yarn over is a knit stitch, bring the working yarn between the needle tips to the front of the work and the yarn over is formed as the next stitch is knit.  If the stitch following the yarn over is a purl stitch, the working yarn must be wrapped over the right hand needle.  See Yarn Over Video to review these techniques.
  • Continental-style knitters (working yarn held in left hand) create a yarn over by scooping up the working yarn with the right hand needle.  A yarn over is made is this manner every time with no regard to the stitch following the yarn over.  See Yarn Over (Continental) Video

The decreases used in Crimple are the K2tog and SSK.  These essential decreases are the most common decreases in lace knitting.

Lifelines are incredibly helpful in lace knitting.  This strand of waste yarn threaded through your knitting will safeguard the stitches below it and protect your hard work.  I never knit lace without them!  Watch my Lifelines Video to place a safety net in your sock.

Lastly, those knitting size Small and Large will notice that their charted instep begins with a purl stitch.  These knitters must remember to begin the instep with the yarn in the purl position to prevent an unwanted yarn over.  Magic Loop knitters will need to be especially vigilant that the working yarn is in the front of the work and under the right hand needle to execute the first purl stitch.

Enjoy the Foot design and I look forward to following your progress.  Happy knitting!



k2tog – knit two together.  See K2tog Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK Video

yo – yarn over.  See Yarn Over Video


SmallClick here to download printable version

MediumClick here to download printable version

LargeClick here to download printable version


Work charted design in appropriate size over instep stitches maintaining sole in stockinette (all knit).  Continue knitting in pattern until foot measures 2” less than desired length ending after an even numbered row.

Small Size Chart


Medium Size Chart


Large Size Chart


37 thoughts on “Crimple – Part 2

  1. 1. Double check that you are picking up the wraps exactly as shown and knitting through the back loop on the right side and purling together on the wrong side. Give these stitches a firm tug to tighten up the holes, too.
    2. The short rows take the place of the gusset. This is just one of many heel options and you can experiment until you find the perfect heel for your foot.
    3. JMCO is not the same as Figure 8.

    Happy knitting!

  2. Q1: Your short heel videos are very helpful, however I still see small gaps on both heels, one side is worse then the other. Do you have tip how to minimize the ‘holes’?
    Q2: Also why is that there is no ‘gusset’?
    Q3: Is the JMCO cast on the same as ‘Figure 8’ cast on?

    thank you for the clear instructions. Your website is one of my favorite instruction site because the clarity !

  3. I love this pattern! Thanks for writing such clear directions. So far, so good. I decided that I wanted to knit 2 at a time on 2 needles. I kept getting confused so I took one sock off the needles–then had knitter’s remorse–so I went out and bought 2 more needles and knit the 2nd sock up to the same point as its partner and then moved that sock onto the pair of needles next to its partner. It is so nice to knit them side by side. Thanks for offering this class–I am enjoying the knit!

  4. Yes, after working all 32 rounds of the chart you will begin again at Row 1 working until the sock measures 2″ less than finished length.

  5. I had the same question about should we just continue with the last few rows of the pattern or go back to row 1.. Felt a little silly about the question but it does make sense to repeat the pattern by going back to row1. Having fun with the KAL.

  6. uh-oh.
    I finished the chart, then worked plain ribbing on top and stockinette on the foot. I interpreted the “work in pattern” after the chart, to continue with the k2 p2. No prob, I’ll know for next time.

  7. Thank you for the video of the Lifeline! It saved me 2x and will continue to use it! I am moving it up every 5 rows.
    Almost finished with wk 2! Loving it!

  8. When in doubt, tink it and do over. I figured it out — I can’t explain what I did wrong, but when I re-did it, I did it correctly. That’s the fun of knitting for me — I don’t always know what I’m doing as I forge ahead with the pattern!! :o)

  9. That phrase means to continue working the patterned design. In other words, you will continue with the charted design over the top of the foot and leave the sole in stockinette. You will work all 32 rows of the chart and then start again at Row 1 and do it again until the foot is 2″ shy of the back of the heel Make sense?

  10. The mistake must be in the YO. Count your stitches after stitch #17 – you should have 17 stitches. Except for the k2tog and YO in the row, you will always knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches. Keep me updated – I’m here to help!

  11. Regarding “Continue knitting in pattern……” Does “knitting in pattern” mean to continue with the K2, P2 pattern?

  12. I’m a little confused. This is the first time I have used a chart for the pattern. I’m making the medium sock and have 32 stitches on the needles when I begin Row 1. Because I’m knitting two together at stitch #16, I am one stitch short by the time I get to the end of the row. I understand that Stitch #17 is a YO and that will add the stitch back to the row when I’m done and will be correct for row 2. But what do I do at the end of row one when I end at a purl stitch and the pattern says it should be a knit stitch and I have no stitches left to make it? Help please!

  13. When knitting in the round, the needles should be in the near part of the circle (tummy). When the needles are away from you (far side of the circle), the work will knit inside out.

  14. Thank you, Michelle. I am so enjoying your KAL’s! I’ve just recently discovered you and I have fallen in love! I’m actually being a little over ambitious considering this is my first sock and I’m doing one pair for her and one for me. I’m doing hers one at a time, but I’m trying the two at a time for mine. Gotta go. Lots of knitting to do! Lol.

  15. You will measure the foot from the tip of the toe to the to the back of the heel. With your daughter’s foot measuring 9 1/2″ you will knit the sock to 7 1/2″ to begin the heel. I usually measure to the middle of the needle. Your daughter is so lucky to have you knitting socks for her!

  16. When I am measuring to find my stopping point, do I measure from the tip of the toe or from the start of Part 2? Also do I measure over the top or underneath the needle? And (I know, I’m being very needy tonight, lol) my daughter’s foot measures 9-1/2″ from tip of toe to back of heel. So I’m stopping and 7-1/2″, right?

  17. thank you, I got it! You don’t know how much I wanted to learn socks. Now, if the heel goes well, (of course it will) I will be as happy as a clam. And my next pair will be with CoBaSi, it’s just that I had this other on hand.

  18. Let’s see if I can help. The yarn over will be an increase before you ssk. The ssk will use up the 2 knit stitches from the row below. You will always be purling the same 2 stitch purl columns throughout the pattern. Are you a Continental or Western style knitter?

  19. I’m on row 3 of part 2 and am confused because when I do the yo then ssk, I have only one stitch to purl if I keep the pattern intact. Do I really purl 2, k2, p2 per the chart? or do I maintain the pattern as established on all but the center two stitches?
    have i gone awry so quickly??

  20. I find myself vacillating before a YO, I try it this way, try it that way, and a couple of times during the straight k2 p2 part I find the oddly placed strands that I need to make sense of. Going back to review your YO video.

  21. OMG, this is really scary. I’m off and running, but I feel like i’m free-falling. So far so good, good to know you’re there. My next row is #8

  22. Give a firm tug on the second stitch of the needle and it should help. Many of the ladders will disappear as your knitting grows. I’m proud of you for trying new skills!

  23. I would like to know if the tension is different. This cobasi yarn is very stretchy. So should I be more Aware of it.

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