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Gauge Does Matter

Gauge Does Matter

Knitters often confess to me that they never knit a gauge swatch. While this does not surprise me, I AM surprised that most knitters fail to fully understand the implications of omitting this crucial step.

Most importantly, improperly sized stitches will yield a piece in a size different than the stated measurements in the pattern. Spending countless hours knitting a garment that doesn’t fit is no one’s idea of fun. Also, many knitters neglect to swatch for projects that aren’t required to “fit”, such as scarves, shawls, blankets, etc. While the gauge may not be crucial to the outcome of these items, it has a huge impact on the amount of yarn used. Because larger (loose)stitches use more yarn it may result in a yarn shortage. Who wants to run out of yarn with just a few rows remaining? Taking the time to assess the stitches prior to the project will produce a piece that fits well, with optimum stitch appearance, and knit within the stated yardage.

What is Gauge?

See Gauge video

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch in the fabric. A designer will provide a stated gauge to achieve the intended size and drape of the piece. While most gauges are worked in stockinette, some designers list other stitch patterns to provide a truer measurement, especially if no stockinette is used in the garment. Many gauges are listed as a count of stitches and rows over a 4” square. This larger swatch gives a more accurate stitch count.

Three factors determine the gauge: yarn, needles, and your unique tension. Trying to adjust your knitting tension is not a reliable method to achieve the stated gauge. Let’s face it – we walk the way we walk, talk the way we talk, and knit the way we knit. Your knitting tension is as individual as a fingerprint and trying to consciously knit looser or tighter than usual is a tall order. The best approach to matching gauge is to adjust needles and yarn.

The Swatch

A swatch is a piece of test knitting where a knitter works to reach the stated gauge in a pattern. In addition to the vital gauge numbers, a swatch is a preview of the fabric’s drape, stitch definition and overall appearance.

Needles    

A swatch should be knit up in the needles that you will be using for the project. Different needle materials can have an impact on the size of the stitches. For some knitters, bamboo needles grip the stitches and yield tighter stitches while metal needles release the stitches quickly leaving looser stitches. For example, if you intend to knit a sweater on metal needles then a gauge knit on bamboo needles may not give the same results.

The pattern’s gauge will state the needle size that the designer used to reach this gauge. It is not a failure if your gauge is met using a different sized needle than those recommended in the pattern. For all you know, this designer could be a very tight or loose knitter. It is only important that you reach the same number of stitches per inch.

When preparing to cast on for the swatch, most knitters will begin with the recommended needle size for their swatch. If you have enough knitting experience to know that you are usually a tight or loose knitter, then save some swatching time by making this adjustment for the first attempt.

A project that will be knit flat should be swatched in flat knitting. If the project is knit circularly, then the swatch should be knit in the round as well. In circular knitting, stockinette is knit without working a purl round. For most knitters, the purl stitch is slightly larger and its absence will impact the stockinette gauge. I will be discussing flat gauge here, but watch my Circular Gauge Knit Flat video for a tutorial.

Casting On

For an accurate stitch count, the swatch should be measured across the center of the swatch away from all of the edges. The cast on, bind off and side stitches are usually distorted and should not be used for the gauge.

For a large measurable area, I recommend knitting a swatch that is 6” wide. Cast on enough stitches to produce a piece this large. For example, if the desired gauge is 5 stitches to the inch then casting on at least 30 stitches is a good swatch foundation.   If the swatch is to be knit in stockinette, I like to frame it in seed stitch for flat lying edges that make the center easy to measure. I avoid garter stitch edges since it has a much smaller row gauge that distorts the swatch.

For the swatch pictured above, the pattern stated a gauge of 22 stitches to 4”. I cast on 38 stitches: 30 center stitches + 4 seed stitches on each end. The lower section was knit with my initial needle size where I found that the stitches were too small thus yielding too many stitches per inch. Time to try a larger sized needle. I continued on the same swatch, placing a garter ridge to show where I changed needle sizes. The middle section used a needle one size larger but I was still off target. Next, another ridge and another size larger needle. Bingo, I got my stitch gauge on the third try!

Once I have achieved the stated gauge, I like to block the swatch to verify that the count will remain the same. Sometimes, I block a swatch that is near gauge to coax it into the exact gauge. If the pattern lists the measurements are after blocking, then you can expect that swatch to behave differently after blocking.

Row Gauge

Many patterns give a stitch and row count per inch(es). While both are important, it is more important to match the stated stitch count. After swatching, the stitch count is often spot on, but the row gauge may be off.

If the row gauge is slightly different, try experimenting with a different needle size or an alternate needle material to see if that will impact the rows. Also, try blocking the swatch to determine if it can be coaxed into the required row gauge.

If the row gauge is significantly different than the stated gauge, the pattern may be knit with some precautions taken. If a project states to knit to a desired length, then the row gauge will not be a factor. However, if the pattern has shaping based on the row gauge then the frequency of the shaping must be altered. For example, a looser row gauge (less rows per inch) will make the piece longer between each increase or decrease. If a pattern directed you to decrease one stitch every four rows, this loose row gauge will result in a longer shaping area. Decreasing more frequently, (perhaps every third row) will combat this issue and reduce the correct number of stitches in the desired length of knitting. (This is a full lesson for another day!)

Final Tips

  • Your gauge may change as you become accustomed to the yarn and stitch pattern. Check your gauge mid-project to confirm that your gauge is unchanged.
  • A larger needle makes bigger stitches, which are fewer stitches per inch.
  • A smaller needle makes smaller stitches, which are more stitches per inch.

 

‘Twas The (Knitter’s) Night Before Christmas

‘Twas the night before Christmas and I was still knitting
The family was sleeping and there I was sitting;
The hand knit stockings were hung on the chimney with care
Hope no one noticed the cupboards were bare.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of mittens danced in their heads;
Still dressed in old sweats, yarn in my lap,
I hurried on to finish the last knitted cap.

When out from the closet there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from my chair to see what was the matter.
Away to the storage I flew like a flash,
Threw open the door and confronted my stash.

The yarn on the floor was like new-fallen snow,
Better shove it in quick so the husband won’t know.
When what to my bloodshot eyes should appear,
But the Knitting Fairy who said, “Have no fear!”

What a quick little knitter, so lively and fast,
She did the knitting while all I did was cast.
More rapid than eagles her stitches they came,
She knitted, she purled and called the yarn by name:

“On,Trekking! On, HiKoo! On, Noro! On, Bliss!
On, Regia! On, Opal! Not one skein was missed.
To the top of the stash! Get every last ball!
We can’t give a gift purchased at the mall!”

Her needles how they sparkled! Her stitches just right!
We knitted together all through the night.
Hats, scarves, shawls, socks and a sweater;
My knitting projects had never looked better!

She spoke not a word, head bent over her work,
And knit all the yarn with her magical “circ”.
My projects were done, they were perfectly sized;
Each one an heirloom sure to be prized!

She picked up her needles and gave me a wink,
The fairy dust flew, she was gone in a blink.
But I heard her exclaim as she darted from sight,
“HAPPY KNITTING TO ALL, AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT!”

Michelle Hunter
Copyright 2008

Mackinac Island TKGA Workshop

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I had the great honor to teach a two day workshop for TKGA in the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island, Michigan.  Mackinac Island is a small slice of heaven located in Lake Huron between the upper and lower peninsulas of Michigan.

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After a short ferry ride past the Mackinac Bridge, visitors find themselves back in time as they are greeted by the clip-clop sound of horses.  Motorized vehicles are prohibited on the island and horse-drawn carriages provide the bulk of transportation.  Tourists, groceries and even golf clubs are moved throughout the island by horses.

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A short carriage ride from the ferry sits the crown jewel of the island, Grand Hotel.  Built in 1887, this magnificent structure provides guests with spectacular views and incomparable service.  The grounds are impeccably maintained and can be viewed from the rockers on its famously vast porch.  For dinner, men are required to wear ties and the ladies must wear dresses as they are regaled with seven course meals served by white-gloved waiters.  There is truly no place like it in the world.  If it is not already there, add it to your bucket list of sites to see for a memorable stay.

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The workshop was a two day study in colorwork and a preview of my upcoming book.  I had 20 delightful students who were a joy to teach! We covered topics including Intarsia, duplicate stitch, expert yarn strategies, novelty stitches and more. The best part of the weekend was making so many new friends as we shared our love of knitting.  I will never forget my time with them and hope our paths cross again soon.

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Weekly Prize Winner

We have a weekly prize winner!  Our lucky KALer is Linnea M. from Ferndale, WA. She won a pair of the new addi® Sock Rocket Circular Needles and a new sock pattern featuring CoBaSi from skacel.
How does the weekly prize work?  A short blurb will be posted on the Skacel or Knit Purl Hunter website.  It will read something like this:  “Be the first to email *****.com with I love addis in the subject line and you will be the winner.”  Once someone has claimed the prize, the clue is removed.  There is no rhyme or reason to the location of the clue or date of its posting so be sure to check out both sites often.
Just another great reward from Skacel!

 

 


Knitting Retreat in Northeast Ohio!

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Join me on a fun-filled knitting weekend in Austintown, Ohio as a guest of The Flaming Ice Cube!  We will explore colorwork knitting and many of the beautiful patterns possible with 2 and 3 colors of yarn.  Become an expert at handling multiple yarns as you create designs that only look difficult to execute.  At the retreat, knitters will begin to knit a sampler baby afghan that is based on my upcoming new book.  You will leave the weekend with lots of inspiration and knitting know-how.  I  hope to knit with you!

Join me in Florida!

Logo Final

Attention Florida knitters!  I will be teaching three workshops at A Good Yarn Shop in Sarasota, February 8th and 9th:

Beginning Finishing

Every knitted piece is enhanced with expert finishing.  This class will elevate your skills and grow your confidence while learning the basics of seaming, grafting and blocking.  Techniques covered include invisible shoulder seams, vertical seams, kitchener stitch, picking up stitches and more.  Suitable for the advanced beginner.

Novelty Stitches

Novelty stitches add texture, charm and interest to any knitted piece.  Use these fun-to-knit stitches to turn an ordinary project into your own unique creation.  In class students will learn to execute many interesting stitches and how to introduce them into a project. No more plain vanilla knitting for you!  Suitable for the Intermediate knitter comfortable with basic shaping techniques and familiar with several stitch patterns.

Stitch + Stash = Style

Do you have beautiful yarns in your stash that are begging to be knit but you aren’t sure what to do with them?  Are you intrigued by the endless number of stitch patterns in reference books?  This is the class for you!  Learn the best way to use a stitch dictionary to complement your stash yarn and create one-of-a-kind pieces.  A fabulous way to use luxury or hand-spun yarn!  This class covers stitch selection, an overview of fibers, best uses for each yarn, and simple pattern design.  Students will create a unique cowl pattern using their stash yarn in class.

Intertwisted

October’s fun and fast knitting Knit Along project has been added as a FREE download in my website’s Pattern Shop and on Ravelry. This project makes for quick gifts and can be used with so many different yarns. If you want to view the detailed instructions and photos from the KAL, just head to the KAL page accessible from my home page. Happy knitting!

Can You Help?


Knitters are the most giving people in the world! A shining example of this generous spirit can be found in the Hats 4 the Hatless project. This grass roots organization is asking knitters for their help in their efforts to keep children in need warm this winter. A few hours of your time can warm a child’s head and heart. Please read more about the project below in a message from its founder.

Hats 4 the Hatless

Do you have tons of leftover yarn piling up? Would you like to help those less fortunate? Are you part of a knitting club or church looking for a service project? If so, we would love your help. Hats 4 The Hatless is an offshoot of a nonprofit organization called Shoes 4 The Shoeless. We provide new shoes, socks, underwear and hats for children in need in grades K-12.

Here’s how you can help. We are in need of handmade or store bought new hats and leftover yarn. If you would like to donate hats or yarn we would greatly appreciate your help. To learn more about this worthwhile organization go to shoes4theshoeless.org or contact shauge@columbus.rr.com

Thank you for considering our project,
Sandy Hauge