I hope you had a marvelous time knitting Triplicity and maybe learned something along the way. Our Knit Along is named Progressive Needles because the goal is to further your knitting education. Join me November 3rd as we knit toe up socks! See you then!
With the lovely garter slip stitch completed (pictured above), we will end our shawlette with a textured bind off. The Picot Bind Off is a delightful technique that adds texture and interest to any garment. This bind off uses much more yardage than the standard bind off. Be prepared for this should you choose to substitute this bind off in your next project.
The Picot Bind Off achieves its texture by casting on extra stitches and binding them off at regular intervals. The stitches are cast on using the Cable Cast On method. The Cable Cast On is often used to cast on stitches within a garment. Buttonholes would be one example of a great place to use this handy cast on. I recommend watching the “Cable Cast On” Video for an up close look at this technique. When executing the Cable Cast On, pay close attention to the manner in which the new stitch is placed on the left hand needle. In the video, the stitch is placed untwisted on the needle. This slight attention to detail will result in a plumper picot. One of my test knitters reported that her picots were more of a “flop” until she seated her cable cast on stitches as demonstrated.
All steps of the Picot Bind Off can be seen in the “Picot Bind Off” Video. NOTE: The Picot Bind Off is different from the Stretchy Picot Bind Off used in our last KAL series to finish a toe up sock.
Once Triplicity is off the needles it is time to block. Blocking is an often-neglected step that has so many benefits. Think of it this way, you would never cart around a shirt in various bags for several weeks as you mend it and then just pop it on and expect it to look its best. The same thing is true for knitting. Take the bit of extra time to showcase your beautifully knit garment.
Triplicity’s texture stitches are all based in garter stitch. Because of this, the shawlette lies nearly flat and requires minimal blocking. However, blocking did allow me to stretch the shawlette to a larger dimension, even the tension and smooth the picot edges. Blocking also allowed the yarn to bloom and plump to its lovely potential. I gave Triplicity a little bath in cold water and then pinned it to the desired dimensions. I did not find it necessary to pin each of the picots found in the bind off – a simple smoothing with my fingertips was all it needed. Once dried, my shawlette had an improved appearance and a larger size coupled with a superior drape. Give your work the professional touch with blocking – learn how with the “Blocking” Video.
Return here tomorrow and I will post pictures of the completed Triplicity!
Picot Bind Off
See “Picot Bind Off” Video
Bind off 2 sts, *return stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, cable cast on 2 sts, bind off 5 sts. Repeat from * to end.
Weave in ends. See “Weave in Ends” Video
Block to desired size. See “Blocking” Video
Lifelines are like umbrellas.
If you have one, you probably won’t need it.
If you forget one, you will wish you had it!
©2011 Michelle Hunter
Join us November 3rd for Repeat Performance as the KAL continues. We continue our focus on texture stitches while knitting socks two at a time from the toe up. There are plenty of videos, techniques and stitches in store for you!
Repeat Performance is knit with Royal by Austermann. The pattern uses 2 50g/215yard skeins of this scrumptious, solid-colored yarn. A gauge of 8.5 stitches per inch in stockinette is recommended on US#1 (2.5mm) 40” circular needles or size needed to obtain gauge. NOTE: Pattern may also be knit two at a time on two circular needles or one at a time on double points.
With our lovely knot stitch section complete (pictured above), it’s time to add our last section of texture using a slip stitch pattern. Slip stitch patterns are simple and quick to knit and are the basis for many solid and multi-colored designs.
A slip stitch moves a stitch from the left hand needle to the right hand needle without working the stitch. This simple little stitch can cause confusion and it is best to learn its general rule.
Slip Stitch Rule
On the right side of the work, always slip as if to purl with yarn in back unless otherwise stated.
On the wrong side of the work, always slip as if to purl with yarn in front unless otherwise stated.
A stitch is slipped as if to purl so that it is seated correctly on the right hand needle and ready to be worked in the subsequent row. When a stitch is slipped as if to knit, the stitch becomes twisted. These twisted stitches are often used in decreases or to create a design element and fall into the “otherwise stated” category. When following the Slip Stitch Rule, the working yarn is always on the wrong side of the work keeping the resulting strands hidden. Changing the location of the yarn, in an “otherwise stated” position, makes for many interesting design possibilities.
In this pattern you are directed to slip one (sl 1). The Slip Stitch Rule dictates to slip this stitch as if to purl and I have helped you by including directions for the location of the working yarn. Every sl 1 is followed by the abbreviaton wyif or wyib. These abbreviations tell you where to keep the working yarn as you slip the stitch. Wyif, with yarn in front, means the working yarn must be on the nearside of the work (closest to you) before the stitch is slipped. Wyib, with yarn in back, means that the working yarn must be on the far side of the work (away from you) before the stitch is slipped.
To review the slip stitch watch the “Slip Stitch” Video.
sl – slip. See “Slip Stitch” Video
wyib – with yarn in back.
wyif – with yarn in front.
Section 6. Garter Slip Stitch – 26 rows
Row 51. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (177 sts)
Row 52. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (179 sts)
Row 53. K2, SM, M1L, k1, *sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, k1, **sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (183 sts)
Row 54. K2, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyif, *k1, sl 1 wyif; repeat from * to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, sl 1 wyif, **k1, sl 1 wyif; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (185 sts)
Row 55. Same as Row 51. (189 sts)
Row 56. Same as Row 52. (191 sts)
Row 57. K2, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyib, *k1, sl 1 wyib; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyib, **k1, sl 1 wyib; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (195 sts)
Row 58. K2, SM, M1L, k1, *sl 1 wyif, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, k1, **sl 1 wyif, k1; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (197 sts)
Row 59. Same as Row 51. (201 sts)
Row 60. Same as Row 52. (203 sts)
Row 61. Same as Row 53. (207 sts)
Row 62. Same as Row 54. (209 sts)
Row 63. Same as Row 51. (213 sts)
Row 64. Same as Row 52. (215 sts)
Row 65. Same as Row 57. (219 sts)
Row 66. Same as Row 58. (221 sts)
Row 67. Same as Row 51. (225 sts)
Row 68. Same as Row 52. (227 sts)
Row 69. Same as Row 53. (231 sts)
Row 70. Same as Row 54. (233 sts)
Row 71. Same as Row 51. (237 sts)
Row 72. Same as Row 52. (239 sts)
Row 73. Same as Row 57. (243 sts)
Row 74. Same as Row 58. (245 sts)
Row 75. Same as Row 51. (249 sts)
Row 76. Same as Row 52. (251 sts)
We finish our shawlette next week with a fun bind off. Happy knitting!
I trust you are having a grand time knitting Triplicity and enjoying the softness of Simplicity yarn. Pictured above is Part One off of the needles and safely secured with a lifeline. I thought you would enjoy seeing the triangular shape we are creating.
Part Two introduces the Knot Stitch. This easy to execute texture stitch adds an interesting depth to the shawlette. While a Knot Stitch combines a purl two together with a knit two together, it does not alter the stitch count. Check out the “Knot Stitch” Video to master this simple texture stitch.
As our shawlette grows in size our stitch count becomes larger, too. It can be quite time consuming to count every stitch after every row. My favorite trick to help with counting is to add additional “counting” markers to section off groups of stitches. For easy viewing, use markers in a color different than the original four markers that indicate where to increase. Use the counting markers to section off a large number of stitches in between the increase markers. Because this section is in between the increases, this stitch count will remain constant. Now you will only need to count the stitches outside of your counting markers to verify the correct number of stitches after each row.
The picture below illustrates this tip. (I have used a smaller shawl for demonstration.) The green markers are my four original markers indicating where to increase. The pink markers are sectioning off two groups of 30 stitches each between the original markers. To verify the number of stitches in this row I only need to count the stitches outside of the pink markers – there are 19. I add these 19 stitches to the 60 stitches (2 groups of 30) I have sectioned in the pink markers to tell me that there are 79 stitches in this row. I was able to get an accurate count without counting each and every stitch! As the shawlette widens, you may want to move the counting markers to encompass larger numbers of stitches to keep your counting to a minimum.
At the end of Part One in Triplicity, there are 107 stitches in our shawlette. Section off two groups of 50 stitches in between the increase markers. You will have 7 stitches outside of these counting markers. After working the first row of today’s clue, you will have 111 stitches. Eleven of these stitches are outside of our new counting markers – these are the only stitches you needed to count!
KT (knot stitch) – purl 2 stitches together and leave on left hand needle, knit together the same 2 stitches removing them from the left hand needle. See “Knot Stitch” Video
Section 4. Knot Stitch – 14 rows
Row 29. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (111 sts)
Row 30. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (113 sts)
Row 31. Same as Row 29. (117 sts)
Row 32. K2, SM, M1L, *KT; repeat from * to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, **KT; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (119 sts)
Row 33. Same as Row 29. (123 sts)
Row 34. K2, SM, M1L, *KT; repeat from * to 1 st before 2nd marker, k1, SM, k1, SM, k1, **KT; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (125 sts)
Row 35. Same as Row 29. (129 sts)
Row 36. Same as Row 30. (131 sts)
Row 37. Same as Row 29. (135 sts)
Row 38. Same as Row 34. (137 sts)
Row 39. Same as Row 29. (141 sts)
Row 40. Same as Row 32. (143 sts)
Row 41. Same as Row 29. (147 sts)
Row 42. Same as Row 30. (149 sts)
Section 5. Stockinette – 8 rows
Row 43. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (153 sts)
Row 44. K2, SM, M1L, purl to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, purl to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (155 sts)
Row 45. Same as Row 43. (159 sts)
Row 46. Same as Row 44. (161 sts)
Row 47. Same as Row 43. (165 sts)
Row 48. Same as Row 44. (167 sts)
Row 49. Same as Row 43. (171 sts)
Row 50. Same as Row 44. (173 sts)
Next week brings our 3rd texture stitch.
I will be at Stitches East in Hartford, CT next week! Due to my travel schedule, Triplicity Part 3 will be released one day early on Wednesday, October 19th.
Welcome to the Progressive Needles KAL! I am very excited to showcase fabulous stitches, techniques and yarns. I think we will have great fun together while adding to your knitting know-how!
Because Simplicity yarn provides excellent stitch definition, Triplicity will focus on texture stitches. Whether the stitches are new to you or an old favorite, you will love how the yarn makes the stitches “pop”. As with many shawls, Triplicity uses a much larger needle size than recommended by the yarn. This larger gauge will give your project a lovely drape.
Triplicity begins with a garter stitch tab. This neat little technique creates a beautiful foundation for our shawlette. If you are new to this method, watch the “Garter Stitch Tab” Video to learn this simple beginning. You will see why shawl enthusiasts love it!
Following the cast on, there are three stitch sections in Part One. I highly recommend inserting a lifeline into your shawlette after completing each section. A lifeline is a piece of waste yarn threaded through a row of knitting. If a mistake is made after inserting the lifeline, you may safely unravel to the lifeline without losing the work below. Experienced lace knitters have long used this safety net to protect their work. Watch the “Lifelines” Video for a quick tutorial on this essential skill.
The shawlette will grow in size due to the Make One increase. This nearly invisible stitch is preferred by many of today’s designers. The Make One increase may be executed to lean to the left (M1L) or lean to the right (M1R). Watch the “Make One” Video to learn this discriminating increase.
The first featured stitch of the shawlette is the Knit One Below stitch. Knitting below is most often seen in Brioche knitting – a category of texture stitches. To knit one below, insert the right hand needle into the center of the stitch directly below the first stitch on the left hand needle. Wrap as if to knit in the usual manner, drawing the yarn through this “below” stitch. Drop the original stitch from the left hand needle. It appears as if this action will cause your knitting to unravel, but magically it does not! See the “Knit Below” Video for a demonstration.
Remember – you are not alone! I will be answering questions daily here on the KAL page. Also, join the Knit Purl Hunter KAL group on Ravelry to chat with other KALers and see their work. I can be found chiming in there daily, too.
- Simplicity by HiKoo (55% Merino Superwash, 28% Acrylic, 17% Nylon; 107 meters/50g), 3 skeins
- Size US #10(6mm) 32” circular needle
- 4 markers
16 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette.
After blocking, approximately 47” along top edge and 15” deep at center point.
Prior to blocking, approximately 42” X 13”.
K1B – knit one below. See “Knit Below” Video
M1L (Make One Left) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit the lifted strand through the back. See “Make One” Video
M1R (Make One Right) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted strand through the front. See “Make One” Video
PM – place marker.
SM – slip marker.
sts – stitches.
- First and last 2 stitches of every row are knit.
- SM is in bold for easy tracking within each row.
- Center stitch (stitch between 2nd and 3rd marker) is knit every row.
- Right side (odd #) rows increase by 4 stitches. After 1st marker – M1L, before 2nd marker – M1R, after 3rd marker – M1L and before 4th marker – M1R. (Think of a marching army – left, right, left, right!)
- Wrong side (even #) rows increase by 2 stitches. After 1st marker – M1L and before 4th marker – M1R.
- Stitch count is given after each row.
See “Garter Stitch Tab” Video
Cast on 2 stitches using long tail cast on.
Knit for 26 rows.
Pick up and knit 13 stitches along the long end (one in each ridge).
Pick up and knit 2 stitches along cast on edge.
17 stitches are now on the needle.
Set Up Row 1 (RS). K2, PM, M1L, k6, M1R, PM, k1, PM, M1L, k6, M1R, PM, k2. (21 sts)
Set Up Row 2 (WS). K2, SM, M1L, p8, SM, k1, SM, p8, M1R, SM, k2. (23 sts)
TIP: The Make One stitch is considered a knit stitch – the working yarn must be in the knit position when executing a Make One stitch to prevent an accidental yarn over.
Section 1. Stockinette – 8 rows
Row 1 (RS). K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (27 sts)
Row 2 (WS). K2, SM, M1L, purl to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, purl to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (29 sts)
Row 3. Same as Row 1. (33 sts)
Row 4. Same as Row 2. (35 sts)
Row 5. Same as Row 1. (39 sts)
Row 6. Same as Row 2. (41 sts)
Row 7. Same as Row 1. (45 sts)
Row 8. Same as Row 2. (47 sts)
TIP: I recommend placing a lifeline at the end of each section. See “Lifeline” Video
Section 2. Twisted Moss – 12 rows
Row 9. K2, SM, M1L, k1, *K1B, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, k1, **K1B, k1; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (51 sts)
Row 10. K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (53 sts)
Row 11. K2, SM, M1L, k2, *K1B, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, **k1, K1B; repeat from ** to 2 sts before 4th marker, k2, M1R, SM, k2. (57 sts)
Row 12. Same as Row 10. (59 sts)
Row 13. Same as Row 9. (63 sts)
Row 14. Same as Row 10. (65 sts)
Row 15. Same as Row 11. (69 sts)
Row 16. Same as Row 10. (71 sts)
Row 17. Same as Row 9. (75 sts)
Row 18. Same as Row 10. (77 sts)
Row 19. Same as Row 11. (81 sts)
Row 20. K2, SM, M1L, purl to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, purl to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2. (83 sts)
Section 3. Stockinette – 8 rows
Row 21. Same as Row 1. (87 sts)
Row 22. Same as Row 2. (89 sts)
Row 23. Same as Row 1. (93 sts)
Row 24. Same as Row 2. (95 sts)
Row 25. Same as Row 1. (99 sts)
Row 26. Same as Row 2. (101 sts)
Row 27. Same as Row 1. (105 sts)
Row 28. Same as Row 2. (107 sts)
Next week’s clue brings us another new texture stitch. Happy knitting!