Wandering Moon – Part 4

Our shawl is nearly done and all that is left is to add a fabulous top edge.  I chose to add an eyelet row prior to the bind off for a bit of interest at the edge.  After working the eyelet row the stitch count has been increased by one to 253 stitches.  Follow this row with three plain rows of knitting and it is time for one of my favorite bind offs.

The I-cord bind off adds stability to edges and is completely reversible.  It is one of my favorite neck edges and makes for a nice pocket trim in a contrasting color.  I often use them on shawls to combat the flimsy edge.  The I-cord bind off can be adjusted in size by altering the number of stitches in the I-cord.  I usually find that a three stitch version works well and that is the size demonstrated in my new video, I-cord Bind Off.


Once the bind off is complete and the shawl is off the needles, it is time to block it to bring the garment to its full potential.  Blocking will even the stitches – especially the cross 6.  Blocking also helps the shawl maintain the crescent shape and allows Rylie to bloom and soften.  Please note that the linen in Rylie will give the fabric a stiff feel immediately after drying.  Scrunch the shawl a few times between your hands and it will return to its luscious softness.  That’s the wonder of linen – soft and resiliently strong.

I prefer to wet block my shawls using blocking wires.  My Blocking with Wires video will help those of you first time blockers.  Unlike the shawl in the video, I ran my lower wire through the row just above the cable border.  (See below)  I did not pin the cables but simply smoothed them a bit with my fingertips.


I ran the upper wire in the same manner by passing it through just below the bind off.  (See below)


Once blocked, Wandering Moon is ready to wear with pride!


If you would like a condensed version of the full Wandering Moon pattern, click here or download it on Ravelry.

It has been my pleasure to lead you through this installment of the Progressive Needles Knit Along.  I hope you had a fabulous time while increasing your knitting skills.  Please join me in January for my next knit along, Ambiguous.  Scroll down for the complete details and supply list.

See you in 2016,



CO – cast on.

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

k2tog tbl – knit two together through the back loop. See K2tog tbl Video

LHN – left hand needle.

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video


Click here to download printable version

Top Border

Row 1. (RS) K1, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, yo, k1. 253 sts

Rows 2 – 4. Knit.

I-cord Bind Off – See I-cord Bind Off  Video

With right side facing, CO 3 sts using Knitted Cast On method.  See Knitted Cast On Video

*K2, k2tog tbl, slide these 3 sts back to LHN: repeat from * until 3 st remain on LHN. Bind off remaining sts using Standard Bind Off. See Bind Off  (Standard) Video

January 2016 KAL – Ambiguous

Kick off the New Year by ramping up your knitting skills with a stunning two-color cowl using HiKoo Sueno (formerly Frog Tree’s Pediboo). The stranded cowl (also known as Fair Isle knitting) will feature lessons on hand positioning, yarn dominance, managing floats and a surprising take on an old favorite. The cowl is available in two sizes to suit your style. The sneak peek at the cowl was met with rave reviews – you won’t want to miss this one!


Small (Large)

8” tall, approx. 22 (40)” around after blocking


Sueno, 80% washable merino wool/20% bamboo, 255 yds/100g each.

  • 1 (2) skeins Background Color
  • 1 (2) skeins Main Color


  • Two #5 (3.75mm) 16 (24)” circular needles. Second needle is used to graft stitches in finishing.


  • Size F crochet hook for provisional cast on
  • 10 yards smooth, contrasting color waste yarn
  • Tapestry needle
  • Markers


Approx. 26 sts and 32 rounds = 4” in stockinette worked in the round.

Gauge is crucial to yardage so please take the time to swatch.

Posted in Wandering Moon | Tagged | 14 Responses

Wandering Moon – Part 3

Whew!  Last week’s clue was hard work and only added a few inches to the shawl.  At the conclusion of Part 2, I had 4g of yarn left in my first skein.  If you have already joined your second skein in Part 2, you may want to consider using a smaller sized needle for the remainder of the shawl to conserve yardage.  Smaller stitches use less yarn! I used approx. 55g for Part 3 and 15g for Part 4.  At the conclusion of the shawl I had 34g remaining in my second skein.  While this is ample wiggle room (1/3 of a skein), you may feel less anxious using a smaller needle – especially if your gauge is different than mine.

Our clue this week is full of delightful garter stitch to cruise along and add much needed depth to Wandering Moon.  The shawl’s crescent shape is achieved through short row decreasing.  Since we are working in garter stitch, there are no wraps to fret over.  Thanks to some well-placed markers, the knitting is relaxing as you watch the textured fabric grow.  Rylie’s beauty will enhance the simple stitch pattern making your shawl simply lovely.

A short row by definition is a row of knitting where only a portion of the row is worked – i.e. you stop short.  Short rows are used in many ways to create shaping.  In short row decreases, a portion of the row is worked with each row containing a decrease.  By combining short row shaping with decreases, the shawl curves nicely to sit on your shoulders.  Best of all, the dense nature of garter stitch hides the “turn” eliminating the need for wraps.

In Wandering Moon, begin the Body by setting the stage for the short rows.  Because the nubby nature of the fabric can hide the “gaps” that normally signal the turning point in a short row, I prefer to place markers that alert me to the decrease/turning points.  Markers placed in these gaps will keep you on track and take the anxiety out of short rows that many novices experience.  Once the markers are in place, the knitting is simple and rather mindless.

With right side facing for Row 1, knit 159 stitches and place a marker on the left hand needle (yep, that’s correct) and turn to the wrong side.  With wrong side facing for Row 2, knit 4 and place a marker on the left hand needle and turn.  Looking now at the work with right side facing, the 4 stitches between the markers are the center stitches.  There are 155 stitches on each side of the markers.  With each subsequent row, more stitches will be added to the center and the markers will be moving outward.

With right side facing in Row 3, work to one stitch before the marker.  Remove the marker, ssk, k4, replace the marker on left hand needle and turn.  With wrong side facing in Row 4, work to one stitch before the marker.  Remove the marker, k2tog, k4, replace the marker on left hand needle and turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all of the stitches have been worked ending after a wrong side row.  At the conclusion of the short rows, 252 stitches remain.

With so many stitches to work with, I found it helpful to group the stitches outside of the center stitches for easy counting.  There should always be a multiple of 5 stitches on each side of the center stitches.  We began with 155 on each side of the center stitches.  Each row will take away 5 sts from one side of the center stitches.  Try adding markers to the outside stitches to section off groups in multiples of 5 to help stay on track.  I used yarn markers to distinguish these groups so as not to confuse them with my short row markers.

Here is how I initially set up my markers with right side facing:

50 sts/marker/50 sts/marker/50 sts/marker/5 sts/center marker/4 center sts/center marker/5 sts/marker/50 sts/marker/50 sts/marker/50 sts

At the conclusion of a wrong side row (Row 4) there are the same number of stitches on each side of the center markers and these outside stitches are a multiple of 5.

I review all of this and more in my Garter Stitch Short Row Decreases video.

I joined my second skein of yarn shortly after I began the short row section.  The best way to join the new skein is to do so with the Russian Join.  This handy little trick weaves and joins at the same time and is perfect for joining yarn in shawls.  Watch my Russian Join video to ramp up your knitting skills.

While this section of the shawl is simple, the knitting will take you some time.  Because of this, there will be no clue release next Thursday.  Taking advantage of the extra Thursday in October, the 4th part of the pattern will be released on October 29.  Additionally, the prize submission deadline has been extended to November 30 to allow you ample time to enter.

Lastly, I will be sailing on a knitting cruise from October 18-25 where I will be teaching on the high seas.  I will have limited internet access but will check in with you all as often as possible.  I can’t wait to come back and see all your progress!

Happy knitting,




k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

LHN – left hand needle.

PM – place marker.

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together  See SSK Video


Click here to download printable version

Garter Stitch Short Row Decreases

See Garter Stitch Short Row Decreases Video

***Place a lifeline to safeguard previous work.***

Row 1. (RS) K 159, place removable marker on LHN, turn.

Row 2. (WS) K4, place removable marker on LHN, turn.

At this point there are 4 center stitches with 155 stitches on each side of the markers.

Row 3. (RS) Knit to 1 st before marker, remove marker, ssk, k4, PM on LHN, turn.

Row 4. (WS) Knit to 1 st before marker, remove marker, k2tog, k4, PM on LHN, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked ending after WS row. 252 sts



  • One stitch is decreased on each row.
  • Center sts (between markers) increase with each row, i.e. more sts are worked in every new row.
  • Stitch count outside of markers will always be a multiple of 5 sts.
  • Group stitches outside of markers into multiples of 5 to stay on track. Example: Place marker every 10, 25 or 50 stitches – use different color markers to avoid confusion with short row decrease markers.
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Wandering Moon – Part 2

With the long border completed (mine measured approx. 74″ with 55g used), we draw our attention to the Body of the shawl.  The Body begins by picking up stitches along the garter stitch edge of the border.  Picking up stitches along a garter ridge is simple since one stitch is picked up in each ridge a long the edge.  Watch my Picking Up Along a Garter Stitch Edge video for a complete tutorial with lots of tips.

In Wandering Moon, picking up along the edge is easier thanks to the well placed markers along this edge.  Each repeat of the Border pattern has 20 rows which produced 10 garter ridges with the 10th ridge holding a marker.  For each of the 26 repeats pick up one stitch in each ridge – 10 stitches between each marker.  We will only be picking up the stitches in this process – we are NOT picking up and knitting them.  While the process is fairly simple, leave a nice block of time to work this process in one sitting if possible.

To begin, use a long circular needles at least several sizes smaller than the working needle (I used a #2) so it can easily slide through each stitch.  I recommend placing a stopper on the unused end of the small needle so that the stitches don’t inadvertently slip off the back end. With right side facing, start by picking up the one stitch from the cast on row and follow it with picking up the 10 stitches in the garter ridges of the first repeat – 11 stitches are picked up in the first repeat (10 garter ridges + 1 cast on stitch).  Every time a marker is reached, place the marker on the right hand needle to section the stitches into groups.   (If safety pins were used on border, replace them as you move across the row with round markers.) Continue picking up 10 stitches for every repeat, placing the marker between each group.  On the last repeat, pick up 10 stitches and the one stitch from the bind off row – 11 stitches are picked up in last repeat (10 garter ridges + 1 bind off stitch).  There will be 262 stitches on the needle sectioned into groups of 10 with the first and last group consisting of 11 stitches.  Do not turn the work!


With right side facing and using #7 40″ needle, Row 1 is worked as an increase row across the picked up stitches.  Two increase stitches (kfb) are worked in each repeat to accommodate the upcoming stitch pattern.  It is important that the markers remain in place to assist you in the next step.  At the conclusion of Row 1, there are now 12 stitches between the markers with the first and last repeats containing 13 stitches to include the cast on and bind off stitches – 314 stitches.

Carefully count that the correct number of stitches are on the needles.  Work Rows 2 – 4 maintaining the markers to section each group.

Rows 5 and 6 contain a variation of the fabulous stitch pattern, Indian Cross, called Double Cross.  The stitch is unique and fun to do but requires some practice.  I highly suggest watching my cross 6 (Indian Cross) video for expert tips and then take the time to practice the technique on a swatch.  You will be glad you did!

In Row 5, knit one, then wrap each stitch of the row 3 times as they are knit repeating to the last stitch, k1.  It is imperative that the triple stitch is not wrapped too tightly.  Tightly wrapped stitches will not slide on the needle and make the row very difficult.

In Row 6, six stitches are slipped dropping the extra wraps.  These giant stitches are then rearranged and knit to resemble an “X”.  Two repeats of the cross 6 are worked between each set of markers.  (See now why we kept them in place! )  Continue through Row 12 to complete the end of Part Two.

In the photo below, my cross 6 stitches are beautifully showcased in Rylie.  Note that the work in the photo below has been blocked – your stitches will shape up to their full glory when you block the shawl later.


Next week brings us easy, simple knitting with a helpful video.

Happy knitting,



BO – bind off.

CO – cast on.

cross 6 – slip 6 stitches to right hand needle dropping extra loops. Pass first 3 stitches together over last 3 stitches and onto left hand needle. Return last 3 stitches to left hand needle. Knit 6. See Cross 6 (Indian Cross) Video

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch. See Kfb Video

LHN – left hand needle.

PM – place marker.

sl – slip. See Slip Stitch Video

SM – slip marker.


Click here to download printable version


Stitches will be picked up along the border’s garter stitch edge using the markers as a guide. Do NOT pick up and knit – just pick up the stitches (i.e. slide needle through stitch). An increase knit row will follow this operation.


With right side facing and using circular needle at least several sizes smaller than working needle size, pick up 262 stitches along edge as follows:

Pick up cast on st, pick up one stitch in each garter ridge (10 sts between the markers) replacing marker on needle after each group of ten sts, pick up bind off stitch.


There are 10 garter ridge bumps between each marker (10th ridge has marker hanging from it.) plus one cast on stitch and one bind off stitch.

10 garter ridge bumps per repeat X 26 repeats + one cast on st + one bind off st = 262 sts.

After picking up sts and with right side facing 25 markers have been placed as follows:

BO st + 10sts,                       PM 10sts, ……. PM 10sts,           PM 10st + CO st

11 sts   +                     240 sts (24 groups of 10) +                   11 sts           = 262 sts

Double Cross

With right side facing, join yarn and begin remainder of shawl using #7 40” needle.

Row 1. (RS) K1, *k2, kfb, k4, kfb, k2, SM; repeat from * to last st, k1. 314 sts

Note: Last repeat does not end with a SM. Markers will aid in counting and stitch placement of following design.

*Row 1 Tips*

After Row 1 and with right side facing (reading from right to left), marker placement is as follows:

K1 + 12sts,                 PM 12sts, ……. PM 12sts,             PM 12sts + K1

13 sts   +                     288 sts (24 groups of 12) +                   13 sts

= 314 sts

Row 2. (WS) Knit.

Rows 3 – 4. Knit.

Row 5. K1, *k 1 wrapping yarn around the needle 3 times for each st; repeat from * to last st, k1. Do not work triple-wrapped stitches tightly!

Row 6. K1, *cross 6; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Note: Cross 6 will be worked twice between markers.

Rows 7 – 8. Knit.

Row 9. Same as Row 5.

Row 10. Same as Row 6.

Row 11. Knit, removing markers.

Rows 12 – 14. Knit.


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Wandering Moon – Part 1

rylie127 (1)


I’m delighted to have you knitting with me for Wandering Moon – a crescent shaped shawl knit with the lovely yarn, Rylie.  Whether you are knitting with the limited edition color Power Pink, or one of the other 16 fabulous colors, you will love how the yarn enhances the beautiful stitches and techniques.  As with all of the patterns in the Progressive Needles KAL, we will be growing our skills and having fun all while creating a beautiful garment.

Before we begin, here is an overview of the KAL:

  • A portion of the 4-part mystery pattern is revealed here on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th Thursday in October.  (No clue release on Oct. 22)  The weekly pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having  your own private knitting tutor!
  • Projects completed by November 30 are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.

Wandering Moon is knit from the bottom up beginning with a unique cabled border.  The border is knit in one long strip where stitches will be picked up along the edge for the body of the shawl in next week’s clue.  For today, we will cast on 16 stitches using the Cable Cast On method.  I love using this cast on as it yields a nice edge with right side facing for the first row.  Since the border is worked over a small number of stitches, you may want to use a shorter length needle (straights or circs) to knit this section.

With the border’s right side facing, the right edge will be in garter stitch and the left edge is graced with a slip stitch lending a smooth appearance to the cable.  Take care to slip the last stitch of every right side row with yarn in front so that the neighboring purl stitch slides gently to the back.  The border’s six-stitch cable is spaced irregularly to give it a unique charm.  See photo in pattern below.

The MOST IMPORTANT task in this border to to hang a marker from the last stitch of every 20 row repeat.  The cabled border pattern is worked 26 times.  At the conclusion of the border, there will be 25 markers hanging on the garter stitch edge of the border.  You do not need to hang a marker on the 26th repeat since the bind off edge serves a marker.  These markers will be vital to us in correctly picking up stitches and placing the fabulous new stitch in next week’s clue.  DO NOT skip this step!

Once the 26 repeats of the cable pattern are completed, the bind off is worked incorporating two decreases to prevent the edge from flaring out.  The instructions for the bind off are in the pattern.  Some knitters are confused when counting the stitches this way.  Don’t overthink the process – just work two evenly spaced k2tog stitches while binding off and all will be fine.

Next week I will have a new stitch and technique for you – both of them with brand new videos!

Until next week, happy knitting!





  • Rylie by HiKoo (50% Baby Alpaca, 25% Mulberry Silk, 25% Linen; 274 yds/100g), 2 skeins
  • Size US #7 (4.5mm) 40” circular needle or size needed to obtain gauge for shawl Body.
  • Size US #7 (4.5mm) straights or 24”circular needle for Border.
  • Cable needle
  • Two removable markers
  • Additional 25 removable markers or safety pins

Optional (but very helpful), needle to aid in finishing: 32 – 40” circular needle several sizes smaller than project needle, ranging from US #1 to #4


Approximately 18 sts = 4 inches in garter stitch


Approximately 74” along bottom edge and 13” deep at widest point


BO – bind off.

C6B – slip next 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 3 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 3 stitches from cable needle.  See Cables Video

CO – cast on.

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

sl – slip. See Slip Stitch Video

wyif – with yarn in front.

 yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video


Click here to download printable version

Scalloped Cable – Worked over 16 sts, 20 rows (Chart below)

Row 1. (RS) K1, k2tog, yo, p2, k9, p1, sl 1 wyif.

Row 2 and ALL wrong side rows through Row 20. K2, p9, k2, p2, k1.

Row 3. Same as Row 1.

Row 5. Same as Row 1.

Row 7. Same as Row 1.

Row 9. K1, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, C6B, p1, sl 1 wyif.

Row 11. K1, k2tog, yo, p2, C6B, k3, p1, sl 1 wyif.

Row 13. Same as Row 1.

Row 15. Same as Row 1.

Row 17. Same as Row 1.

Row 19. Same as Row 9.

Scalloped Cable Chart



Bottom Border

Using shorter needle, cast on 16 sts using Cable Cast On method.  See Cable Cast On video

Work Rows 1 – 20 of Scalloped Cable pattern 26 times. (See BO instructions below)

IMPORTANT: After working Row 20 in each repeat, hang a marker from last stitch in row as seen below. There will be 25 markers placed at completion of border.

IMG_1718 (1)

With right side facing bind off as follows:

Bind off 4 sts, k2tog, bind off 4 sts, k2tog, bind off 5 sts, one st remains. Cut yarn and pull tail through last st.

Note: Another way to explain the bind off is to work a standard bind off across the row that includes two evenly spaced k2tog stitches.

Posted in Wandering Moon | Tagged | 31 Responses

Scoreboard KAL


Click here to download printable version

Questions are also monitored daily through the end of the season in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.


Featured Yarn

HiKoo Simplicity, 55% Merino superwash, 28% acrylic, 17% nylon; 117 yds / 50g; uses two team colors, approx. 6 skeins each.

Optional – one skein of a third color for a visual break between games.

addi Needles

Two 4.5mm (approx. US 7) 16” circular needles

(Second needle is needed to graft stitches using Kitchener Stitch)

Additional Notions

Tapestry needle, stitch marker, approx. 1 yd of waste yarn, Size G crochet hook – for provisional cast on


21 stitches and 27 rounds = 4” in Stockinette Stitch


Average cowl is 8” wide, approx. 94” around.

Length around varies with total number of points scored.


MC – Main Color. Primary color that represents your favorite team.

CC – Contrasting Color. Secondary color that will always represent the opponent.

CC2 – Contrasting Color 2. Optional third color used to separate games.


  • Cowl is worked in the two colors of your favorite team.
  • Primary color represents your team (MC).
  • Secondary color will always represent the opponent (CC).
  • All stitches are worked in knit.
  • When changing colors, work the Jogless Stripe technique for smooth color transitions.  See Jogless Stripe video
  • When working stripes that are 4 or more rounds high, carry the unused yarn with the working yarn by twisting the yarns together on the wrong side at the beginning of every 4th round as in photo below.  See Carrying Yarns in Circular Knitting video




With waste yarn, cast on 80 stitches using a Provisional Cast On.  See Provisional Cast On video

Place marker and join in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches.

Upon completion of first round (as described on p. 2), place a Lifeline through the stitches to aid in removal of provisional cast on at end of project. See Lifeline video

The striping sequence is determined by the order of the points scored in each game. Knit one round in designated color every time a team scores a point.

Note: If you missed knitting live with your favorite team, check out www.footballdb.com for a scoring summary of all pro and college teams.

Example game summary:

Favorite team scores a touchdown – knit 6 rounds MC

Favorite team’s extra point is good – knit 1 round MC

Opponent scores a field goal – knit 3 rounds CC

Favorite team scores a touch down – knit 6 rounds MC

Favorite scores a 2-point conversion – knit 2 rounds MC

Opponent scores a touchdown and extra point – knit 7 rounds CC

Favorite team scores a field goal – knit 3 rounds MC

Total = 28 rounds knit for game.


Work rounds based on the scores for each game of the season.

If desired, a visual separation between the games of the season can be worked using the optional third color:

  • Option 1 Game Separation: At conclusion of game, and using CC2, knit one round, purl one round, knit one round to denote end of game with a textured break.
  • Option 2 Game Separation: At conclusion of game, and using CC2, knit one round to denote end of game with a small stripe of color 3.



Weave in all ends prior to closing tube.

Break yarn leaving 60” tail.

Using the Lifeline as a guide, thread the second circular needle through Round 1 and remove the waste yarn used for the provisional cast on.

Thread tail onto tapestry needle and close tube by grafting stitches with Kitchener Stitch.  See Kitchener Stitch in the Round video

If desired, weave in the tail onto the Right Side using Duplicate Stitch.  See Duplicate Stitch video

©2015 Michelle Hunter


For an overview of the project, watch my Scoreboard KAL video.

Posted in Scoreboard, Uncategorized | 30 Responses