The stage has been set for the body of the poncho with the completion of Part One. Part Two brings the longest section of this pattern. I’m sure there are a few knitters who can complete it in a week, but for the rest of us mere mortal knitters it will take more time. Don’t worry, I am here to answer your questions for however long it takes you. So sit back and enjoy the relaxing knit.
Before beginning the next section, I highly recommend inserting a lifeline through the last row of Part One. This will protect those hard-earned stitches should any future errors occur. Better safe than sorry! I also recommend weighing the remaining yarn in the skein that was used for Part 1. You will need to save this same amount of yarn for Part 3.
Next, remove the markers that were used for the diamond border. Part Two has a completely different repeat that makes these markers obsolete. If you used removable markers just safely unclip them off of the needles. If your makers are not removable, simply discard them as you work across the first row of Part Two.
For the body, one repeat of the established diamond pattern will flank the left hand side of the work with the center design worked in a simple staggered eyelet. The seed stitch edges will continue for the entire piece.
With right side facing, a marker MUST be placed before the last 25 stitches of the row to isolate the diamond pattern. This marker is noted in the written directions and indicated by a red line in the chart. Having this marker in place makes the stockinette/eyelet design a snap to knit. I took the opportunity to use one of my “pretty” markers since this marker will remain in place throughout the body. I found the eyelet design simple to work and chose not to use markers between these repeats. If you use markers in the eyelet section, they must be rearranged in Row 27 to accommodate the staggered design and then rearranged again for Row 1 – you can see why I didn’t want to bother with this!
***Critical Information*** It is VERY important to note that the first repeat in the body begins with Row 3. In other words, begin Part Two with Row 3 and continue through Row 28. The remaining repeats will work Rows 1-28. The body design is worked 14(16) times – this number includes the first repeat which began with Row 3. On the last repeat of the body (14th or 16th repeat), the eyelets are eliminated from Row 27 for symmetry.
Customizing the size of the poncho is very straightforward. The length of the knitted rectangle will be wrapped around the body to form the width of the poncho. The poncho hangs a bit diagonally on the body which adds some much needed width. Each repeat is approximately 3″ tall. If you would like the poncho narrower, then work fewer repeats. For a wider poncho, work more repeats. I suggest working about 12 repeats of the body and evaluate its size. If your row gauge is different than mine it could have an impact on the height of your repeats and will create the need to knit more or fewer repeats. Part Two should measure 5″ less than your desired length. (Make sure that you leave enough yarn for Part 3 as stated above.) A lifeline is a great idea in these last few repeats should you need to rip back in your customization. It seems small on the needles, but draped diagonally it works out beautifully. Have faith!
The large eyelets in the body are formed from flanking decreases separated by a double yarn over. The Double Yarn Over, also know as yo twice, creates two extra strands on the needles. When these two strands are worked on the following row, a hole substantially larger than a single yarn over is formed. These larger holes are used in gorgeous openwork patterns and add a bit of interest to the body of the poncho.
For Continental knitters, a double yarn over is made by simply scooping up the working yarn twice, placing two strands on the right hand needle, and then proceeding with the next stitch.
For Western-style knitters, a double yarn over’s execution is determined by the stitches surrounding it. When a double yarn over is between knit stitches, the working yarn is brought between the needles to the purl position, taken over the top of the right hand needle and then under the needle to the front returning the yarn to the purl position. One strand has been placed on the right hand needle. Keep the working yarn in front as the next stitch is knit to form the second strand in the double yarn over. A K2tog and SSK are considered to be knit stitches and are treated as such in the execution of a double yarn over.
On the row following a double yarn over, the two new strands must each be worked in different stitches to preserve them. In 14 Carat, the first yarn over in the pair is purled and the second yarn over is purled through the back loop. See Purl Through the Back Loop video.
A complete lesson on double yarn overs for both styles of knitters is found in my Double Yarn Over (yo twice) video.
Obviously you will need to join skeins as needed in this long section. The above photo shows where I added my second skein which by coincidence was the beginning of a row. I joined the remainder of my skeins in the middle of the row where I think is easier to mask the join. While I do like the Russian Join, the spin in Cobasi does not lend itself to this technique and I wove in my ends on the wrong side in the traditional fashion. See Weave in Ends video
Until next week, happy knitting!
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k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog video
ptbl – purl stitch through the back loop. See Purl Through the Back Loop video
[Seed 3] – k1, p1, k1.
[Seed 5] – k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
SK2P (sl 1, k2tog, psso) – slip next stitch as if to knit, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over decreased stitch and off the needle. Left leaning, double decrease. See SK2P video
ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together. See SSK video
SM – slip marker.
yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over video
yo twice – yarn over twice. See Double Yarn Over video
With right side facing, place a marker before last 25 stitches in row.
Work Body from written instructions below or using Chart B (below).
***Begin first repeat with Row 3 and continue through Row 28. All following repeats work Rows 1 – 28.***
Row 1. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k9, yo, ssk, k9, [seed 5].
Row 2 and ALL wrong side rows through Row 28. [Seed 5] purl to last 3 sts, [seed 3].
NOTE: For double yarn overs in Rows 14 and 28, purl into first yo and purl second yo through the back loop (ptbl).
Row 3. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k7, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k8, [seed 5].
Row 5. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k6, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k7, [seed 5].
Row 7. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k5, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k6, [seed 5].
Row 9. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k4, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k5, [seed 5].
Row 11. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k3, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, ssk, k4, [seed 5].
Row 13. [Seed 3], k13, *ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to marker, SM, k2, k2tog, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k3, [seed 5].
Row 15. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k1, k2tog, yo, k13, yo, ssk, k2, [seed 5].
Row 17. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k3, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo k4, [seed 5].
Row 19. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k4, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo k5, [seed 5].
Row 21. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k5, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo k6, [seed 5].
Row 23. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k6, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo k7, [seed 5].
Row 25. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo k8, [seed 5].
Row 27. [Seed 3], k6, *ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to 7 sts before marker, ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k3, SM, k8, yo, SK2P, yo, k9, [seed 5]. (See NOTE below for last repeat.)
Work Rows 1-28 14 (16) times (this number includes 1st repeat that began with Row 3) to measure approx. 55 (62)” OR until piece is 5” less than desired length.
**VERY IMPORTANT** On last repeat only, work Row 27 as follows to eliminate eyelets:
[Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k8, yo, SK2P, yo, k9, [seed 5].