14 Carat – Part 4

14caratfinal

I’m delighted to reveal the completed poncho!  I love the clean lines, flattering fit and especially that it can be worn over everything.  Let’s wrap up the instructions so you can wear yours soon.

Before seaming, block your piece to the desired dimensions.  As you can see in the photo below, I chose to block mine using blocking wires.  The wires provide straight edges with a minimal amount of pins.

I took a different approach to blocking this than your standard wet blocking.  First, I ran the wires along each edge through the purl stitches in the seed borders.  I placed the wires in the horizontal edges through the cast on or bind off stitches.  Next, I pinned the rectangle to a mat.  (I use the foam flooring squares found at home improvement stores.)  Lastly, I sprayed and sprayed with water until it was completely saturated – I mean really, really wet.  Once soaked, I smoothed any wobbly stitches or uneven yarn overs.  It took a good day to dry completely, but now the poncho is ready for seaming.

14caratblocking

Using the schematic below as a guide, fold the rectangle in half with right sides together.  Pin the edge with the 3 seed border leaving about a 12″ opening for the neck.  I recommend trying on the pinned piece to evaluate the size of the neck opening.

14caratschem

I laid the poncho flat on a table to begin the seaming process (shown below).  Working with right side up and beginning at the lower edge, seam the seed stitch borders together using the Vertical Seam method leaving a 12″ opening at the top of the seam.  My Vertical Seam video will show you exactly how to close the seam and also how to expertly attach the length of yarn needed to execute the seam.  Thousands of knitters have used it in my Building Blocks book and I know you will adore this no-fail technique.

14caratseaming

Once the seam is complete, slip the poncho on to assess the neck opening before weaving in the seaming yarn.  If necessary, seam a bit more to make the opening smaller or take out a few seaming stitches to make the neck larger.  Weave in the ends through the seam on the wrong side and you are done.  Get ready for a summer of compliments on your beautiful poncho!

All that is left is to enter the prize drawing for your chance to win a set of addi Clicks and other fabulous gifts from our sponsor, Skacel Collection.  Simply complete your poncho and submit the entry along with a photo by May 31st to be eligible.  Each entry communicates that you enjoy the KALs and hope to see them continue.

As always, it is my honor to lead these KALs.  I hope you had fun and maybe learned a thing or two along the way.  Scroll down to see what I have coming next.

Until next time, happy knitting!

Michelle

Part Four

Click here to download

KPHtemplate_instructions

Finishing

Block to desired dimensions. See Blocking or Blocking with Wires video

Using schematic above as a guide, fold garment as shown with wrong sides together. Seam together edges that have Seed 3 (non-diamond edges) using the Vertical Stitch leaving 12” or desired width for neck opening. See Vertical Seam video

Coming Soon from Knit Purl Hunter

Building with Lace

Optimized-BWLpreview

I’m taking a break from the KALs this summer to work on my new book, Building with Lace.  The skill building series introduces knitters to beautiful lace patterns and techniques all while creating a stunning sampler shawl.  The book will be available in 2017.

Scoreboard 2.0

IMG_1642

The overwhelming success of last year’s Scoreboard KAL demands a second season!  The 2016 version is smaller and quicker to knit, but will still keep you knitting every score of the game.  Scoreboard is a knitted record of YOUR team’s season – follow your favorite pro, college or high school team with your needles.  Details will be announced this summer in time for the August release of the pattern.

October KAL with Knit Purl Hunter

zauberball2263

This fall the Progressive Needles KAL series returns to sock knitting with the FABULOUS Zauberball sock yarn.  This vibrant gradient yarn is popular the world over and I will be bringing you a design to showcase its gorgeous hues.  Only one skein is needed for a pair of socks – stock up early at your local yarn shop!  Be sure to subscribe to my newsletter to receive a supply list and an email reminder of the starting date.

Skacel Summer KAL

Looking for a KAL this summer in my absence?  Skacel has colorwork fingerless mitts to keep you busy.  Click here for all the details.

Posted in 14 Carat | 9 Responses

14 Carat – Part 3

Most of you are slowly working your way to the required length for 14 Carat.  Doesn’t it seem as if the last few repeats are taking forever?  Have no fear, the finishing is almost here and soon you will be stylin’ in your poncho!

It is important to knit the rectangle to the length that best suits YOU.  To determine this measurement, pin the 3 seed edge of the rectangle together leaving about a 12″ opening for the neck as seen in upper right of photo below.  Slip the work in progress over your head to assess the fit, remembering that the upcoming Part 3 will add approximately 5″ to the rectangle.

Too narrow?  Knit more repeats.  Too wide?  Take out a repeat.  Just right?  Buy a lottery ticket because it’s your lucky day:)

14carat#3pin

I hope you remembered to eliminate the eyelets in Row 27 in the last repeat of the Body.  This gives symmetry to the border as we work the top diamond border.

Part 3 is a reversal of Part 1 with the diamond border now being followed by a seed stitch edge as seen below.  Bind off somewhat loosely in pattern to match our beautiful crochet cast on.  See Bind Off in Pattern video

14carat#3

Next week’s clue brings the simplest of seaming techniques that even the most novice finisher can master.  I’m excited to reveal the completed poncho!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog video

[Seed 3] – k1, p1, k1.

[Seed 5] – k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

SK2P (sl 1, k2tog, psso) – slip next stitch as if to knit, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over decreased stitch and off the needle. Left leaning, double decrease. See SK2P video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK video

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Work next 30 rows using Chart A or written instructions below.

Row 1. [Seed 3] k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 2 and ALL wrong side rows through Row 30. [Seed 5] purl to last 3 sts, [seed 3].

Row 3. [Seed 3], k1, *k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 5. [Seed 3], k1, *k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 7. [Seed 3], k1, *k3, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k2; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 9. [Seed 3], k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 11. [Seed 3], k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, ssk; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 13. [Seed 3], k1, k2tog, yo, *k11, yo, SK2P, yo; repeat from * working last repeat k11, yo, ssk, k3, [seed 5].

Row 15. [Seed 3], k1, *yo, ssk, k12; repeat from * to last 9 sts, yo, ssk, k2, [seed 5].

Row 17. [Seed 3], k1, *k1, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 19. [Seed 3], k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 21. [Seed 3], k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 23. [Seed 3], k1, *k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 25. [Seed 3], k1, *k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 27. [Seed 3], k1, *k6, yo, SK2P, yo, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 29. [Seed 3] k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Top Border

Row 1. (RS) K1, p1, k1, knit to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 2. K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 3. Same as 1.

Row 4. Same as 2.

Row 5. (RS) *K1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 6. *K1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 7. Same as 5.

Row 8. Same as 6.

Row 9. Same as 5.

Row 10. Same as 6.

Bind off all stitches in pattern. See Bind Off in Pattern video

14carat chartA

Posted in 14 Carat | 12 Responses

14 Carat – Part 2

14carat#2

The stage has been set for the body of the poncho with the completion of Part One.  Part Two brings the longest section of this pattern.  I’m sure there are a few knitters who can complete it in a week, but for the rest of us mere mortal knitters it will take more time.  Don’t worry, I am here to answer your questions for however long it takes you.  So sit back and enjoy the relaxing knit.

Before beginning the next section, I highly recommend inserting a lifeline through the last row of Part One.  This will protect those hard-earned stitches should any future errors occur.  Better safe than sorry!  I also recommend weighing the remaining yarn in the skein that was used for Part 1.  You will need to save this same amount of yarn for Part 3.

Next, remove the markers that were used for the diamond border.  Part Two has a completely different repeat that makes these markers obsolete.  If you used removable markers just safely unclip them off of the needles.  If your makers are not removable, simply discard them as you work across the first row of Part Two.

For the body, one repeat of the established diamond pattern will flank the left hand side of the work with the center design worked in a simple staggered eyelet.  The seed stitch edges will continue for the entire piece.

With right side facing, a marker MUST be placed before the last 25 stitches of the row to isolate the diamond pattern.  This marker is noted in the written directions and indicated by a red line in the chart.  Having this marker in place makes the stockinette/eyelet design a snap to knit.  I took the opportunity to use one of my “pretty” markers since this marker will remain in place throughout the body.  I found the eyelet design simple to work and chose not to use markers between these repeats.  If you use markers in the eyelet section, they must be rearranged in Row 27 to accommodate the staggered design and then rearranged again for Row 1 – you can see why I didn’t want to bother with this!

***Critical Information***  It is VERY important to note that the first repeat in the body begins with Row 3.  In other words, begin Part Two with Row 3 and continue through Row 28.  The remaining repeats will work Rows 1-28.  The body design is worked 14(16) times – this number includes the first repeat which began with Row 3.  On the last repeat of the body (14th or 16th repeat), the eyelets are eliminated from Row 27 for symmetry.

Customizing the size of the poncho is very straightforward.  The length of the knitted rectangle will be wrapped around the body to form the width of the poncho.  The poncho hangs a bit diagonally on the body which adds some much needed width.  Each repeat is approximately 3″ tall.  If you would like the poncho narrower, then work fewer repeats.  For a wider poncho, work more repeats.  I suggest working about 12 repeats of the body and evaluate its size.  If your row gauge is different than mine it could have an impact on the height of your repeats and will create the need to knit more or fewer repeats.  Part Two should measure 5″ less than your desired length.  (Make sure that you leave enough yarn for Part 3 as stated above.)  A lifeline is a great idea in these last few repeats should you need to rip back in your customization.  It seems small on the needles, but draped diagonally it works out beautifully.  Have faith!

The large eyelets in the body are formed from flanking decreases separated by a double yarn over.  The Double Yarn Over, also know as yo twice, creates two extra strands on the needles.  When these two strands are worked on the following row, a hole substantially larger than a single yarn over is formed.  These larger holes are used in gorgeous openwork patterns and add a bit of interest to the body of the poncho.

For Continental knitters, a double yarn over is made by simply scooping up the working yarn twice, placing two strands on the right hand needle, and then proceeding with the next stitch.

For Western-style knitters, a double yarn over’s execution is determined by the stitches surrounding it.  When a double yarn over is between knit stitches, the working yarn is brought between the needles to the purl position, taken over the top of the right hand needle and then under the needle to the front returning the yarn to the purl position.  One strand has been placed on the right hand needle.  Keep the working yarn in front as the next stitch is knit to form the second strand in the double yarn over.  A K2tog and SSK are considered to be knit stitches and are treated as such in the execution of a double yarn over.

On the row following a double yarn over, the two new strands must each be worked in different stitches to preserve them.  In 14 Carat, the first yarn over in the pair is purled and the second yarn over is purled through the back loop.  See Purl Through the Back Loop video.

A complete lesson on double yarn overs for both styles of knitters is found in my Double Yarn Over (yo twice) video.

Obviously you will need to join skeins as needed in this long section.  The above photo shows where I added my second skein which by coincidence was the beginning of a row.  I joined the remainder of my skeins in the middle of the row where I think is easier to mask the join.  While I do like the Russian Join, the spin in Cobasi does not lend itself to this technique and I wove in my ends on the wrong side in the traditional fashion.  See Weave in Ends video

Until next week, happy knitting!

Michelle

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog video

ptbl – purl stitch through the back loop. See Purl Through the Back Loop video

[Seed 3] – k1, p1, k1.

[Seed 5] – k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

SK2P (sl 1, k2tog, psso) – slip next stitch as if to knit, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over decreased stitch and off the needle. Left leaning, double decrease. See SK2P video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK video

SM – slip marker.

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over video

yo twice – yarn over twice. See Double Yarn Over video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Body

With right side facing, place a marker before last 25 stitches in row.

Work Body from written instructions below or using Chart B (below).

***Begin first repeat with Row 3 and continue through Row 28. All following repeats work Rows 1 – 28.***

Row 1. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k9, yo, ssk, k9, [seed 5].

Row 2 and ALL wrong side rows through Row 28. [Seed 5] purl to last 3 sts, [seed 3].

NOTE: For double yarn overs in Rows 14 and 28, purl into first yo and purl second yo through the back loop (ptbl).

Row 3. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k7, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k8, [seed 5].

Row 5. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k6, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k7, [seed 5].

Row 7. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k5, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k6, [seed 5].

Row 9. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k4, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k5, [seed 5].

Row 11. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k3, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, ssk, k4, [seed 5].

Row 13. [Seed 3], k13, *ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to marker, SM, k2, k2tog, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k3, [seed 5].

Row 15. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k1, k2tog, yo, k13, yo, ssk, k2, [seed 5].

Row 17. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k3, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo k4, [seed 5].

Row 19. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k4, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo k5, [seed 5].

Row 21. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k5, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo k6, [seed 5].

Row 23. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k6, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo k7, [seed 5].

Row 25. [Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k7, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo k8, [seed 5].

Row 27. [Seed 3], k6, *ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k10; repeat from * to 7 sts before marker, ssk, yo twice, k2tog, k3, SM, k8, yo, SK2P, yo, k9, [seed 5]. (See NOTE below for last repeat.)

Work Rows 1-28 14 (16) times (this number includes 1st repeat that began with Row 3) to measure approx. 55 (62)” OR until piece is 5” less than desired length.

**VERY IMPORTANT** On last repeat only, work Row 27 as follows to eliminate eyelets:

[Seed 3], knit to marker, SM, k8, yo, SK2P, yo, k9, [seed 5].

 

Chart B

14carat chartB

14carat legend

 

 

 

Posted in 14 Carat | 64 Responses

14 Carat – Part 1

 

14caratsketch

Welcome to the spring installment of the Progressive Needles Knit Along.  I’m thrilled to share 14 Carat with you – a poncho that is as much fun to knit as it is to wear.  I was shopping last week and saw ponchos in every store and on so many women.  The best news is that they looked great on everyone!  Our poncho is enhanced by the excellent drape and beautiful hues of Cobasi.  A big thank you to our sponsor, Skacel Collection, for distributing this yarn and for their continued support of knitting education.

Before we begin, here is an overview of the KAL:

  • A portion of the 4-part mystery pattern is revealed here on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th Thursdays in April at 9am Eastern time.  The weekly pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having  your own private knitting tutor!
  • Projects completed by May 31 are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.

14 Carat has a very simple construction that is easy to customize.  The poncho is knit as one long rectangle that is folded in half widthwise and then seamed partially along one long side.  The width of the rectangle becomes the shorter length from shoulder to wrist as seen on the left side of the above sketch.  The open portion of the seam becomes the neck opening. The closed portion of the seam drapes asymmetrically lower as seen on the right side of the sketch.  Since it is the length of the rectangle that wraps horizontally around the body, it is very easy to adjust this measurement to suit the width of YOU.  We will address how to customize the size in next week’s clue.

This week you must decide the width of the rectangle (22 or 24 1/2)” which will drape from neck to arm.  Some of this measurement sits on the shoulder and also drapes at the neckline.

I have heard from many knitters fretting over which size to knit.  Ignore the size names – I had to give them some kind of a moniker.  Instead, choose the width of the rectangle (to be the length of the shorter side) and the length of the rectangle will be adjusted as needed.  As I stated in earlier posts, the smaller size is more like the dreaded “One Size Fits All”.  The larger size fits those who need a bit more.  The body width of both sizes can be customized in Part 2.  Don’t worry – the fit will be fabulous!

Because the cast on and bind off edges will eventually be seen side by side, it is important that they have a similar appearance.  For this reason, I chose to cast on using the Crochet Cast On method.  The result is a smooth and somewhat loose cast on that closely resembles the Standard Bind Off.  With no long tail calculation, it is a great option when a large number of stitches are required.  It is similar to the Provisional Cast On except it is worked in the project yarn where the final stitch on the crochet hook is placed on the left hand needle.  I have long used this technique and it was one of my earliest videos.  While my technology has vastly improved, the cast on is still an old favorite.  Watch my Crochet Cast On video to add this to your repertoire.

The bottom and side borders are worked in seed stitch.  This makes for a flat-lying edge that will be easy to seam in the finishing process.  Follow the seed stitch directions as written.  Do NOT slip the first stitch of every row.  This is a nice practice in some instances, but is not suited to edges that will be seamed.

Following the seed stitch is a lovely 14 stitch diamond pattern – hence the name, 14 Carat!  I provide both written and charted instructions for the pattern to suit your preference.  The first three and last five stitches of every row will remain in seed stitch as the diamond pattern is worked.  I abbreviated this in the written instructions as [seed 3] and [seed 5] for easy reading.

The diamonds include the usual yarn over, k2tog and ssk stitches that are standards in lace knitting.  Row 13 contains the SK2P, a left leaning double decrease.  This stitch is executed as slip one as if to knit, knit two together, pass the slipped stitch over the resulting k2tog stitch and off the right hand needle.  Slipping the first stitch as if to knit gives the decrease a smooth and decidedly left lean.  See my SK2P video for a quick tutorial.  All wrong side rows are worked in purl, excluding the seed stitch edges.  I call these recovery rows!

I believe that the key to success in lace knitting rests with two practices – lifelines and markers.  The lifelines will safeguard your work and makes unravelling and rescuing stitches a snap.  I recommend placing a lifeline after working a wrong side row as often as desired.  See Lifelines video

I routinely use markers between stitch pattern repeats to minimize errors.  The markers turn a larger piece of knitting into smaller, more manageable sections of stitches.  With each repeat isolated, errors are spotted in the repeat instead of at the end of a very long row.

I recommend placing markers between each 14 stitch repeat of the diamond pattern, but there is one problem!  In Row 13, the SK2P requires moving the marker to execute the k2tog portion of the decrease.  I solved this dilemma by using removable stitch markers.  As I got to the k2tog in the SK2P, I removed the marker, completed the SK2P, worked the last yarn over of the repeat and then replaced the marker.  The marker is now automatically in the correct place for the remainder of the design – no need to reset or rearrange it later.  You can actually see this shift in Chart A.  If you are knitting from the chart, remember that the stitch repeat is found between the bold lines with the stitches outside of these lines serving as the edge stitches (stitches before and after the * in the written directions).

In lace knitting, the most common problem is forgetting a yarn over in a row.  This omission does not mean that the row has to be removed to replace the missing yarn over.  There is a quick solution called the Afterthought Yarn Over.  I have a video waiting for you should you need it!

Below is a photo of Part 1.  I hope you will share your photos in my Ravelry group for all to admire.  I can’t wait to see them!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

14carat#1

Part One

KPHtemplate_size

Small/ Med. (Large/ XL)
22 (24 1/2)” wide, 60 (67)” long before folding

KPHtemplate_materials

  • CoBaSi by HiKoo, 50g/220 yards each, 55% cotton, 16% bamboo, 8% silk, 21% elastic nylon, 6 (8) skeins
  • US #7 (4.5mm) needle or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Size F crochet hook for cast on
  • Markers

KPHtemplate_gauge

23 sts and 31 rows = 4” in stockinette, unblocked

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog video

[Seed 3] – k1, p1, k1.

[Seed 5] – k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

SK2P (sl 1, k2tog, psso) – slip next stitch as if to knit, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over decreased stitch and off the needle. Left leaning, double decrease. See SK2P video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK video

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Click here to download printable version

Using Crochet Cast On method, cast on 125 (139) sts. See Crochet Cast On video

Bottom Border

Row 1. (RS) *K1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 2. (WS) *K1, p1; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Row 3. Same as 1.

Row 4. Same as 2.

Row 5. Same as 1.

Row 6. Same as 2.

Row 7. K1, p1, k1, knit to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.

Row 8. K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.

Row 9. Same as 7.

Row 10. Same as 8.

 

Diamond Row

Work next 30 rows using Chart A (p. 5) or written instructions below.

Row 1. [Seed 3] k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 2 and ALL wrong side rows through Row 30. [Seed 5] purl to last 3 sts, [seed 3].

Row 3. [Seed 3], k1, *k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 5. [Seed 3], k1, *k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k3; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 7. [Seed 3], k1, *k3, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k2; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 9. [Seed 3], k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 11. [Seed 3], k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, ssk; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 13. [Seed 3], k1, k2tog, yo, *k11, yo, SK2P, yo; repeat from * working last repeat k11, yo, ssk, k3, [seed 5].

Row 15. [Seed 3], k1, *yo, ssk, k12; repeat from * to last 9 sts, yo, ssk, k2, [seed 5].

Row 17. [Seed 3], k1, *k1, yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 19. [Seed 3], k1, *k2, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 21. [Seed 3], k1, *k3, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 23. [Seed 3], k1, *k4, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 25. [Seed 3], k1, *k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 27. [Seed 3], k1, *k6, yo, SK2P, yo, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Row 29. [Seed 3] k1, *k7, yo, ssk, k5; repeat from * to last 9 sts, k4, [seed 5].

Chart A

14carat chartA

Posted in 14 Carat, Uncategorized | 82 Responses

14 Carat Poncho KAL – starts April 7th

14caratsketch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Join me April 7th as we knit a gorgeous poncho – absolutely this year’s hottest fashion accessory!  The fabric has an interesting design with superior drape.  Best of all, the simple construction makes it a garment that is flattering on EVERYONE!  Knitters of all shapes and sizes modeled the poncho and were thrilled with the flattering silhouette.  Most ponchos are available in the dreaded “one size fits all”, but I have two sizes to please everyone.  Whether you are new to garments or an experienced veteran, 14 Carat will bring you new skills as well as a stylish garment.  No previous garment experience is necessary – it’s the perfect first step to wearable knitting!

14 Carat is knit with Cobasi fingering yarn making it a lightweight top appropriate for chilly spring evenings or overly air conditioned restaurants in the summer.  Cobasi is available in solid, tonal and multi-colors that will all showcase the design.

KPHtemplate_size

Small/ Med. (Large/ XL)
22 (24 1/2)” wide, 60 (67)” long before folding

KPHtemplate_materials

  • CoBaSi by HiKoo, 50g/220 yards each, 55% cotton, 16% bamboo, 8% silk, 21% elastic nylon, 6 (8) skeins
  • US #7 (4.5mm) needle or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Size F crochet hook for cast on (surprise, it’s not a provisional cast on!)
  • Markers

KPHtemplate_gauge

23 sts and 31 rows = 4” in stockinette, unblocked

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