Kaika – Part 4

kaika11

The seeds were sown in the foot and the buds began to bloom on the leg.  Now it’s time for Kaika to fully bloom as we top off the sock!

Our final stitch pattern is a bloom which is graced with a tiny bobble.  Unlike standard bobbles, this Japanese-inspired bobble is tidy and efficiently constructed.  Standard bobbles increase one stitch and then work the increases for several rows.  The last step involves passing each increase stitch over the original stitch and off the needle.  I find that this makes for a rather limp bobble.

In my Building Blocks book, I chose to work a 5-stitch Celtic bobble which omits the pass over step through the use of decreases.  Much like the Celtic bobble, the 3-stitch Japanese bobble also eliminates the pass over step, but it uses the very precise Central Double Decrease to reduce the stitch count at the conclusion of the bobble.  I love this dainty bobble which serves as the seed pod in the center of our bloom.  See Bobbles – Japanese Style video

After a flower blooms, it sends its seeds to the wind.  Our Kaika seeds merrily scatter to the wind in the Picot Bind Off.  My website features several picot bind offs, but this dainty version is stretchy enough for toe up socks making it the perfect ending for Kaika.  See Picot Bind Off – Version 2 video

I have had the best time following your progress as your Kaika socks have bloomed.  Please continue to post your photos on Ravelry and Facebook for everyone to enjoy.  Please remember to enter your sock in the prize drawing.  You could be knitting with a set of addi interchangeables from our sponsor, Skacel Collection.

I hope you will join me in July for my next KAL, Unleashed, which is teeming with great techniques.  The project is small and quick to knit, making it perfect for summer travels or knitting at the beach.  Scroll down to the bottom of this post for all of the details.

Many thanks for making me a part of your knitting education!

Until we knit together again – happy knitting,

Michelle

kaikafinal

Part Four

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

B (Bobble 3-stitch) – (k1, yo, k1) into next stitch, turn, p3, turn, slip 2 sts together knit wise (as if working a k2tog), k1, pass 2 slipped stitches together over knit stitch and off the needle. See Bobbles – Japanese version video

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together. See SSK Video

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small Size (Medium, Large Size in parentheses when necessary).

Cuff

Work appropriate size of Design C over ALL 54 (66, 72) stitches from written instructions or from Chart C (below). The 20 (22, 22) round repeat is worked once.

Design C – Small

Round 1. *K1, p1, k5, p1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K2, p1, k3, p1, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K3, p1, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 4 – 8. Same as Round 3.

Round 9. *K2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 10. Knit.

Round 11. *K1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1,yo, k1, ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 12. Knit.

Round 13. *K2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 14. Knit.

Round 15. *K4, B, k4; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 16 – 20. Knit.

 

Design C – Medium

Round 1. *K1, p2, k5, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K2, p2, k3, p2, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K3, p2, k1, p2, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4. *K4, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 5 – 8. Same as Round 4.

Round 9. *K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 10. Knit.

Round 11. *K2, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 12. Knit.

Round 13. *K1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 14. Knit.

Round 15. *K2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 16. Knit.

Round 17. *K5, B, k5; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 18- 22. Knit.

 

Design C – Large

Round 1. *K2, p2, k5, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K3, p2, k3, p2, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K4, p2, k1, p2, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 4. *K5, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 5 – 8. Same as Round 4.

Round 9. *K4, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 10. Knit.

Round 11. *K3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 12. Knit.

Round 13. *K2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 14. Knit.

Round 15. *K1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 16. Knit.

Round 17. *K6, B, k5; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 18 – 22. Knit.

 

ALL sizes – Work k1, p1 rib for 1”.

Picot Bind Off

See Picot Bind Off – version 2 Video

  1. Cast on 2 sts using the Knitted Cast On method.
  2. K2, with left needle lift the right stitch on right needle over the left stitch and off the right needle (i.e. bind off 1 stitch).
  3. [K1, bind off 1 stitch] four times. Slip the remaining stitch back to the left needle.

Repeat Steps 1 – 3 to last stitch. Cut yarn and pull tail through last loop.

Chart C Legend

kaikaClegend

Chart C – Small

kaikaC-sm

 

 

Chart C – Medium

kaikaC-med

 

Chart C – Large

kaikaC-lrg

July KAL!

simpliworsted08 simpliworsted20 simpliworsted21

Join me this summer for Unleashed – a delightful convertible mitten. These gems have a handy flip top allowing them to be worn as fingerless mitts or as a warm mitten. Perfect for texting, dog walking, or knitting outdoors. Available in Child (approx. 4-6 yrs.) and Adult (fits most) size. Learn something new while getting a jump on your holiday gifts!

Go to knitpurlhunter.com and subscribe to my newsletter to receive an email reminder.

Size

Child (Adult) – approx. 6 (8)” hand circumference.

Both sizes are very forgiving. Further size adjustments may be made by changing needle sizes.

Materials

  • Simpliworsted by HiKoo, 55% Merino Superwash, 28% Acrylic, 17% Nylon, 140 yards/100g per skein. Child – 1 skein, Adult – 2 skeins (same color).
  • US #6 (4mm) AND #8 (5mm) 6” double point needles (see NOTE below) or size necessary to achieve desired gauge
  • Stitch holder
  • Two ½ – ¾” buttons, shank style preferred. (Size is not crucial.)

NOTE: Mitten hands may also be knit with two 24” circular needles or one 32” circular needle for magic loop method. See “Magic Loop” Video. Sample was knit using the magic loop method on 32” addi needles.

  • For thumb, double points in larger needle size are recommended.

Gauge

Approx. 17 sts = 4” in stockinette on larger needles.

Simpliworsted and addi needles are available at your local yarn shop and the following online retailers:

knittingtempationslogoSML

FiberWild.com-Logo-Tan-Background

 

Posted in Kaika | 21 Responses

Kaika – Part 3

I hope you are as happy with the Japanese Short Row heel as I am.  It takes a bit of practice, but the end result is so worth the effort.  I may never go back to the old wrap and turn method again!  Before we begin the Leg design, I recommend placing a lifeline through your work to safeguard those hard earned heel stitches.  See Lifeline video

The PKOK is most widely recognized in the mock cable pattern that we knit as Design A in Kaika’s foot.  However, it is used in many Japanese stitch patterns and I chose a favorite for the first part of the leg.  In the foot design, the PKOK stitch made tidy little rows to sow the seeds for our blooming Leg.  In Part Three, the seeds begin to bloom with a tiny flower over the PKOK’s bud.  The photo below shows the transition from the foot (Design A) moving up into the leg pattern (Design B).  I love how how the two designs flow together!

kaika10

Part Three’s lovely PKOK stitch (Design B) is only a portion of the completed Leg.  The height of the completed sock is 7″ for Small and Medium sizes and 6 1/2″ for Large.  Sizes Small and Medium will work Design B’s eight round repeat six times – approx. 4″.  The Large size works Design B’s repeat five times – approx. 3 1/2″.  Because a Large sock has more stitches, one less repeat will save enough yarn to finish the sock.

If you prefer a shorter sock, Part Three is the only place to make adjustments in the height of the Leg.  You may knit as few as one repeat of Design B for a short sock.  Part Four brings a stitch pattern that is 3″ high which CAN NOT be shortened so please plan accordingly.

A reminder to the size Large knitters – the sock was reduced to 72 stitches in the last round of the Heel.  Double check the stitch count before knitting the Leg.

I’m looking forward to next week where I have a new stitch and a new bind off to debut!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

pkok – With right hand needle, pass the third stitch on left hand needle over the first two stitches and off the needle. Knit a stitch, yarn over, knit a stitch. See PKOK Video

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together. See SSK Video

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small Size (Medium, Large Size in parentheses when necessary).

Leg

Work appropriate size of Design B over ALL 54 (66, 72) stitches from written instructions or from Chart B (below).

Design B – Small

Round 1. *K1, p1, k1, pkok, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K1, p1, k5, p1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K1, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 4 – 8. Same as Round 2.

Work Rounds 1-8 six times ending after Round 8.

 

Design B – Medium

Round 1. *K1, p2, k1, pkok, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K1, p2, k5, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K1, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 4 – 8. Same as Round 2.

Work Rounds 1-8 six times ending after Round 8.

 

Design B – Large

Round 1. *K2, p2, k1, pkok, k1, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 2. *K2, p2, k5, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 3. *K2, p2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 4 – 8. Same as Round 2.

Work Rounds 1-8 five times ending after Round 8.

Design B

kaikaBlegend

 

Design B – Small

kaikaB-sm

 

Design B – Medium

kaikaB-med

 

Design C – Large

kaikaB -lrg

Posted in Kaika | 11 Responses

Kaika – Part 2

kaika2

I trust you had a good time “sowing the seeds” for Kaika in the Foot.  You should have ended the Foot after completing Round 2.  Ending after this round is essential to continue the design during the heel construction and to set up the stitches for next week’s pattern.

Part Two takes us to the heel and I’m so excited to share the Japanese Short Row Heel with you!  While the technique is similar to a standard short row heel, I find the result tidier and easier to construct.

Most short rows involve a “wrap and turn”.  In this method, a stitch is circled by a strand of yarn which is later picked up and knit with the stitch to avoid a hole.

In Japanese short rows, a pin is placed around the strand of yarn instead of wrapping the stitch.  This shortens the length of yarn used for the simulated wrap and makes for a neater appearance.  The pin’s yarn is picked up later and knit with its stitch leaving only the smallest pattern disruption.  With no wraps to pick up, I think this method is easiest for knitters new to short rows. Below is pictured an oversize version knit in DK weight yarn to illustrate the beauty of this heel.  Imagine how fabulous yours will look in fingering weight yarn!

kaika4

I have a comprehensive video that will take you through all the steps in the heel, but I will provide a brief overview here.  See Japanese Short Row Heel video

To begin the heel, work across the instep with Round 3 of Design A.   These stitches will rest during the heel construction.  Once on the heel side of the sock, it is time to place pins at regular intervals.  The pins are placed around the yarn so only removable markers, pins, or bobby pins will work.  Pictured below are my two favorites.

kaika3

It is worth noting that all of the slipped stitches in the heel follow the general rule of knitting which states that a stitch is always slipped as if to purl unless otherwise indicated.

Over the heel stitches, with right side facing, knit across to the last stitch.  Turn to wrong side, slip the stitch on left needle to right needle, and place a pin around its strand of yarn.  Purl (keeping pin snug to needle) across the wrong side to the last stitch and turn to the right side.  Slip the stitch from left needle to right needle and place a pin around its strand of yarn.  Photo below shows a pin around the working yarn.

kaika5

Keeping pin snug to needle on wrong side side, knit to second last stitch and turn. Again, slip and place pin, then purl to second last stitch, turn.  Keep repeating this sequence of working to last pin placed, turn, slip, and place pin.  You will continue in this manner working one fewer stitch on each side until the correct number of pairs of pins have been placed.  In the video I demonstrate the use of a counter to aid with the pin placement, but I think that most of you will do fine without this bit of insurance.  Pictured below is my oversized heel with 11 pairs of pins placed as in the Medium size Kaika.

kaika6

Once the correct number of pins are place, it is time to pick up the strands inside the pins and work them together with a stitch to close the gaps.  With the Right Side facing, knit to the gap.   Pictured below is one stitch remaining before the gap.

kaika7

Knit this last stitch before the gap.  The first pin will be hanging below the first stitch on the right needle. Lift the strand inside the pin onto the left needle with its right leg in front (as seen below).  Remove the pin and work a k2tog with stitch on left needle.

kaika8

If you are having trouble recognizing the gap, set your counter to the number of pairs of pins on your heel – 9 (11,12).  Knit until you have the same number of stitches remaining on your left needle as indicated by the counter.  Lift the pin and knit its strand together with the first stitch on left needle – one pin has been removed.  Repeat this for the wrong side purling to the same number of remaining stitches on the left needle and work its pin’s strand with the first stitch on left hand needle.  After working the wrong side, reset the counter to one number less than in the first set of pin removal – 8 (10, 11).  Repeat the process and lower the number after removing a pair of pins.

When knitting to the gap on the wrong side, you can clearly see that the pin is below the first stitch on the right needle.

kaika9

For a mirror image, the strand is handled differently on the wrong side.  Once at the gap, slip the first stitch on left needle to the right needle.  Lift the pin’s strand (the pin dangling below the right needle) and place it on the left needle.  Slip the stitch on the right needle back to the left needle and work the strand and stitch together with a p2tog.

Continue with this process until one pair of pins remain after working a wrong side row.  Knit across the heel and pick up the last pin, k2tog firmly, but DO NOT turn.  Return to circular knitting and work across the instep in Round 4 of Design A as indicated for your size.  With the right side of the heel facing, pick up the last remaining pin and k2tog firmly.   Knit the remaining heel stitches and the heel is complete!

Note for size Large only, the stitch count in the last heel round is reduced to 72 stitches by working a k2tog on the instep and in the heel – read this carefully!

Between these notes and my video, I am confident that your heel will be a beautiful success.  Next week we work up the leg in a new stitch pattern.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

p2tog – purl two together. See p2tog Video

PP – attach pin/marker to the working yarn. The pin should go around the yarn, not through it.

RS – right side.

sl – slip.  In the heel, all stitches are slipped as if to purl. See Slip Stitch Video

WS – wrong side.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small Size (Medium, Large Size in parentheses when necessary).

Heel

See Japanese Short Row Heel Video

First 27(33, 37) stitches will form the instep (top of foot), with second 27(33, 37) stitches forming the heel.

Work Round 3 of Design A over instep stitches. These stitches will remain unworked during heel construction. The remaining stitches will form the heel.

Work across heel stitches as follows:

Row 1. (RS) Knit to last heel stitch (do not knit last st), turn.

Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, PP, purl to last heel stitch (do not purl last st), turn.

Row 3. Sl 1, PP, knit to 2 sts before the end of the heel, turn.

(Heel contains one pair of pins – one pin at each end.)

Row 4. Sl 1, PP, purl to 2 sts before the end of the heel, turn.

Row 5. Sl 1, PP, knit to 3 sts before the end of the heel, turn.

(Heel contains two pairs of pins – two at each end.)

Row 6. Sl 1, PP, purl to 3 sts before the end of the heel, turn.

Continue in this manner – slip a stitch, place pin, work to end with one more stitch remaining, turn – until there are 9 (11, 12) pairs of pins on heel, ending immediately after placing last pin. In other words, complete last WS row, turn to RS, sl 1, place last pin and STOP!

Close the gaps as follows:

Row 1. (RS) Knit to gap. There will be 9 (11, 12) sts remaining on left needle. Lift pin and place its loop of yarn onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, k2tog (knit loop together with next stitch on left needle), turn.

Row 2. (WS) Purl to gap. There will be 9 (11, 12) sts remaining on left needle. Sl 1, lift pin and place its loop of yarn onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, return sl st to left needle, p2tog (purl loop together with next stitch on left needle), turn.

Row 3. Knit to gap. There will be 8 (10, 11) sts remaining on left needle. Lift pin and place loop onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, k2tog, turn.

Row 4. Purl to gap. There will be 8 (10, 11) sts remaining on left needle. Sl 1, lift pin and place its loop of yarn onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, return sl st to left needle, p2tog, turn.

Row 5. Knit to gap. There will be 7 (9, 10) sts remaining on left needle. Lift pin and place loop onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, k2tog, turn.

Row 6. Purl to gap. There will be 7 (9, 10) sts remaining on left needle. Sl 1, lift pin and place its loop of yarn onto left needle with right leg in front, remove pin, return sl st to left needle, p2tog, turn.

Continue in this manner – work to the gap, lift the pin and place its loop on left needle, work it together with next stitch, turn – until there is one pin remaining on each end ending after a WS row.

With RS facing, knit to last stitch, lift pin and place loop on left needle with right leg in front, k2tog, DO NOT TURN.

 

Size Small and Medium

Return to circular knitting and work Round 4 of Design A across instep stitches.

On heel, lift last pin and place its loop onto left needle with right leg in front, k2tog.

Knit across remaining heel stitches – 54 (66) sts.

 

Size Large

Return to circular knitting. Work Round 4 of Design A across instep to last 2 instep sts, k2tog.

On heel, lift last pin and place its loop onto left needle with right leg in front, k2tog.

Knit across remaining heel stitches to last 2 sts, k2tog – 72 sts.

 

Posted in Kaika | 28 Responses

Kaika – Part 1

KPHKALyarn-opt3

Spring is finally here and it’s time for the April 2015 installment of the Progressive Needles Knit Along sponsored by Skacel Collection.  I couldn’t be more proud to share the lovely Let’s Make a Teal yarn with you.  The softness of Wolkenspiel coupled with the dyeing expertise of Schmutzerella created a truly special yarn from my friends at Skacel.  This amazing yarn deserves the star treatment and I hope you will agree that Kaika fits the bill.

Before we begin, here’s a quick overview of how the KAL works:

  • A portion of the 4-part mystery pattern is revealed here on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th Thursday in April.  The weekly pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having  your own private knitting tutor!
  • Projects completed (one finished sock) by May 15 are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.

Kaika is the Japanese word for “blooming” and this pattern will have your knitting skills blooming with new stitches and techniques.  The pattern is available in three sizes to suit most knitters.  The circumference is measured at the top of the sock around the leg – about 6″ above the ankle.  The pattern is based in rib for comfort and size forgiveness.  The height of the leg may be shortened but lengthening may result in a shortage of yarn.

The toe up sock begins with Judy’s Magic Cast On – the slickest way to start a sock.  My Judy’s Magic Cast On video will help you with the cast on and working the toe.

Before Kaika can bloom, seeds are sown in rows along the instep with Design A.  It features a tidy Japanese stitch that I refer to as the Peacock Stitch.  I nicknamed the stitch from its PKOK  abbreviation:

  • Pass
  • Knit
  • Yarn Over
  • Knit

While the stitch result may look familiar, its execution is different from the Western version which I used in my Building Blocks book.  The PKOK is worked all in one row on the right side making it much more efficient than the common variety worked over two rows.  Check out my tutorial and see if you agree.  See PKOK video.  Scroll down to the bottom of the post to preview the pattern shown in size Medium.

Design A may be knit from either written or charted instructions.  If you are new to charts, give them a try referring to the written instructions to self-check your decoding skills.  Whether written or charted, be sure to follow the instructions for the correct size.  A note to size Large knitters only, the chart has an edge stitch in Column 1 that is worked only once and is followed by the 12-stitch repeat across the instep.  Consult the written instructions if needed.

Continue working Design A up the instep until it reaches 2″ less than the desired length of the foot.  The foot is measured from the toe to the back of the heel.  For example, if the desired length is 8″ then stop after knitting 6″.  I prefer to measure my sock on the foot for an accurate assessment of the fit.

Lastly, it is vital to end Design A after completing Round 2.  This sets the stage for the heel and the next stitch pattern.

I will be offline on Easter Sunday celebrating the holiday.  I hope you all enjoy a beautiful day!

Happy knitting!

Michelle

KPHtemplate_materials

  • Wolkenspiel dyed by Schmutzerella, “Let’s Make a Teal”, 80% Extrafine Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Nylon, 437 yards/100g, one skein
  • US #1 (2.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. Pattern may be knit with double points or 32” circular needle for magic loop method.
  • Removable pins or markers (bobby pins may be substituted). Small – 18 pins, medium – 22 pins, large – 24 pins.

KPHtemplate_gauge

Approx. 8.25 sts = 1” in stockinette.

KPHtemplate_size

Women’s Small (Medium and Large).

Leg circumference measures approximately 6 ½ (8, 9)” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 11 (14, 16)”.

Leg height (measured above ankle) approximately 7 (7, 6 1/2)”.

 

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch. See Kfb Video

pkok – With right hand needle, pass the third stitch on left hand needle over the first two stitches and off the needle. Knit a stitch, yarn over, knit a stitch. See PKOK Video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Click here to download printable version

Directions are for Small Size (Medium, Large Size in parentheses when necessary).

Toe

Cast On – See Judy’s Magic Cast On Video

Using two needles, cast on 22(26,30) stitches using Judy’s magic cast on with 11(13,15) stitches on each needle.

Securing tail, knit first 11(13,15) stitches.

Knit second 11(13,15) stitches through the back loop.

Toe Increases

If using one or two circular needle knitting method, increases (kfb) are made at the beginning and end of each needle as follows:

Round 1. On 1st needle, kfb, knit to last stitch on needle, kfb;

On 2nd needle, kfb, knit to last stitch on needle, kfb.

Round 2. Knit all stitches.

If using double points, arrange stitches stitches on 4 needles:

Needle #1 with 5 (6, 7) sts, #2 with 6 (7, 8) sts, #3 with 5 (6, 7) sts, #4 with 6 (7, 8) sts.

Increases (kfb) are made as follows:

Round 1. Kfb, knit to last stitch on 2nd needle, kfb, kfb into 1st stitch on 3rd needle, knit to last stitch on 4th needle, kfb.

Round 2. Knit all stitches.

All needle types: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until toe reaches 54 (66,74) stitches.

 

Foot

First 27 (33, 37) stitches will form the instep (top of foot), with second 27 (33, 37) stitches forming the sole.

Work appropriate size of Design A over instep stitches from written instructions or from Chart A (both below). Knit all sole stitches.

All Sizes – Continue knitting in pattern until foot measures 2” less than desired length of foot ending after Round 2.

 

Design A – Small

Round 1. *K1, p2, pkok, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 2. *K1, p2, k3, p2, k1; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 3. Same as Round 2.

Round 4. Same as Round 2.

 

Design A – Medium

Round 1. *K1, p3, pkok, p3, k1; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 2. *K1, p3, k3, p3, k1; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 3. Same as Round 2.

Round 4. Same as Round 2.

 

Design A – Large

Round 1. K1, *k1, p3, pkok, p3, k2; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 2. K1, *k1, p3, k3, p3, k2; repeat from * to end of instep. Knit all sole stitches.

Round 3. Same as Round 2.

Round 4. Same as Round 2.

 

             Chart A

kaikaAlegend

     Small 

kaikaA-small

 

      Medium

 

kaikaA-med

 

     Large

Note: Work edge stitch in Column 1 once, then repeat Columns 2-13 to end of instep.

kaikaA-lrg

 

Design A – Size Medium

kaika2

 

Posted in Kaika | 18 Responses

April Knit Along!

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April KAL – Kaika

Join me April 2nd for a delightful toe up sock pattern featuring Japanese stitches.

KPHtemplate_materials

  • Wolkenspiel dyed by Schmutzerella, “Let’s Make a Teal”, 80% Extrafine Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Nylon, 437 yards/100g, one skein
  • US #1 (2.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. Pattern may be knit with double points or 32” circular needle for magic loop method.
  • Removable pins or markers (bobby pins may be substituted). Small – 18 pins, medium – 22 pins, large – 24 pins.

KPHtemplate_gauge

Approx. 8.25 sts = 1” in stockinette.

KPHtemplate_size

Women’s Small, Medium and Large.

Small – leg circumference measures approximately 6 1/2” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 11”.

Medium – leg circumference measures approximately 8” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 14”.

Large – leg circumference measures approximately 9” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 16”.

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