Triplicity – Part 3

With our lovely knot stitch section complete (pictured above), it’s time to add our last section of texture using a slip stitch pattern.  Slip stitch patterns are simple and quick to knit and are the basis for many solid and multi-colored designs.

A slip stitch moves a stitch from the left hand needle to the right hand needle without working the stitch.  This simple little stitch can cause confusion and it is best to learn its general rule.

Slip Stitch Rule

On the right side of the work, always slip as if to purl with yarn in back unless otherwise stated.

On the wrong side of the work, always slip as if to purl with yarn in front unless otherwise stated.

A stitch is slipped as if to purl so that it is seated correctly on the right hand needle and ready to be worked in the subsequent row.  When a stitch is slipped as if to knit, the stitch becomes twisted.  These twisted stitches are often used in decreases or to create a design element and fall into the “otherwise stated” category.  When following the Slip Stitch Rule, the working yarn is always on the wrong side of the work keeping the resulting strands hidden.  Changing the location of the yarn, in an “otherwise stated” position, makes for many interesting design possibilities.

In this pattern you are directed to slip one (sl 1)The Slip Stitch Rule dictates to slip this stitch as if to purl and I have helped you by including directions for the location of the working yarn. Every sl 1 is followed by the abbreviaton wyif or wyib.  These abbreviations tell you where to keep the working yarn as you slip the stitch.  Wyif, with yarn in front, means the working yarn must be on the nearside of the work (closest to you) before the stitch is slipped.  Wyib, with yarn in back, means that the working yarn must be on the far side of the work (away from you) before the stitch is slipped.

To review the slip stitch watch the Slip Stitch” Video.

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

sl – slip.  See “Slip Stitch” Video

wyib – with yarn in back.

wyif – with yarn in front.

Section 6.  Garter Slip Stitch – 26 rows

Row 51.  K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (177 sts)

Row 52.  K2, SM, M1L, knit to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, knit to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (179 sts)

Row 53.  K2, SM, M1L, k1, *sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, k1, **sl 1 wyib, k1; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (183 sts)

Row 54.  K2, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyif, *k1, sl 1 wyif; repeat from * to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, sl 1 wyif, **k1, sl 1 wyif; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (185 sts)

Row 55.  Same as Row 51.  (189 sts)

Row 56.  Same as Row 52.  (191 sts)

Row 57.  K2, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyib, *k1, sl 1 wyib; repeat from * to 2nd marker, M1R, SM, k1, SM, M1L, sl 1 wyib, **k1, sl 1 wyib; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (195 sts)

Row 58.  K2, SM, M1L, k1, *sl 1 wyif, k1; repeat from * to 2nd marker, SM, k1, SM, k1, **sl 1 wyif, k1; repeat from ** to 4th marker, M1R, SM, k2.  (197 sts)

Row 59.  Same as Row 51.  (201 sts)

Row 60.  Same as Row 52.  (203 sts)

Row 61.  Same as Row 53.  (207 sts)

Row 62.  Same as Row 54.  (209 sts)

Row 63.  Same as Row 51.  (213 sts)

Row 64.  Same as Row 52.  (215 sts)

Row 65.  Same as Row 57.  (219 sts)

Row 66.  Same as Row 58.  (221 sts)

Row 67.  Same as Row 51.  (225 sts)

Row 68.  Same as Row 52.  (227 sts)

Row 69.  Same as Row 53.  (231 sts)

Row 70.  Same as Row 54.  (233 sts)

Row 71.  Same as Row 51.  (237 sts)

Row 72.  Same as Row 52.  (239 sts)

Row 73.  Same as Row 57.  (243 sts)

Row 74.  Same as Row 58.  (245 sts)

Row 75.  Same as Row 51.  (249 sts)

Row 76.  Same as Row 52.  (251 sts)

 

STOP!

We finish our shawlette next week with a fun bind off.  Happy knitting!

 

33 thoughts on “Triplicity – Part 3

  1. Thanks for another great KAL. I got a late start, just picked up my yarn on Sun, but I am moving quickly. The yarn is wonderfully soft and the new stitches are a lot of fun. Thank you!

  2. Check the address. My email went through and has not bounced back and I sent mine just after noon on the 27th.

  3. Thank you for answering. Weighing is a bit of an ‘overkill’ thing I started doing with a large knitted bedspread for my niece which I designed. It has multiple rows of colour changes for the repeating lace pattern. I have found weighing either the piece at the beginning and end of each section, or once it grew to be too large to fit on my scale, the skein before and after using it, a good way to optimize the remaining pieces of skeins so that there are no joins within a single colour section. Maybe it’s the ‘remnants’ of growing up with a father who is a food chemist! 😉
    Thank you again – You’ve added so much to my repertoire!!!

  4. I am having a problem emailing entry form it has been sent back saying failure. Wondering if it is because it is to early to send in. Thanks for any help you can give

  5. Your reply got me thinking after I sent my thank you – do you have any other ‘section’ or row weights from when you were designing the pattern. I’ve been weighing rows and sections since your comment, but I had already re-knit the second texture prior to that so don’t have any idea of my weights/yardages there. (Trying to plan which sections to repeat!)
    Again, thank you….

  6. Hi
    To make my knitting look more professional…what is a recommended method of adding the second ball of yarn?

  7. I am so pleased with the shawlette I already have a second one underway. It was great fun to meet you at Stitches East. I am eagerly waiting for November.

  8. I’m glad you are much happier with your shawl the second time around. I’ve always found that if I am unhappy with my knitting it is best to start over because I will be more satisfied with the finished project.

    Your yardage question for the bind off is a tricky one. I used about 15 g for the bind off in the stated pattern. You could estimate how many stitches you will have in your modification and use my yardage as a reference point.

  9. Sounds perfect! The first go round did need to be ripped out as I had pulled the tension too tightly in the tab trying to get each row of garter stitches straight. Even with blocking, the fibers would have been strained, especially if trying to make the stitches look comparable to the K2 sts along that same edge. In looking at your examples from weeks 2 & 3, I could see that the amount of possible roll you might have was nowhere near what I had created. My second start does look much better, and as I now know that the tab is created to mimic the K2 sts on each end, I was able to space the tab stitches better (yet not perfectly) as I was straightening each garter row. I also decided to use a crocheted provisional cast on for the 2 end stitches as the slip knot for the long tail cast-on (at least in this instance) created a hard spot around the neckline when I tried it on after finishing Part 2. After discovering this bit, I knew I would always be picking at that area – even after finishing the shawl and be annoyed with myself for not fixing the problem. Thank you again for your info – it’s good to know that blocking will help with the slight roll that is occurring this time around. I have just finished Part 1 (2nd x) so am working to catch up to where I was. One other question/clarification – I had originally asked about lengthening the shawl. I noticed in another post from this week someone also asked about your answer regarding repeats of textures. Because your pattern is so clear it will be easy. My quandary is how to determine the yardage needed for each progressing section, especially as each row requires more yarn, plus make sure there is enough yardage left for the bind-off? For your reference, I was just finishing my first skein when I reached the end of Part 2. I rechecked my gauge in each section – there were no tension variations. As I have 4 skeins of Simplicity I would like to use as much of it as is possible!
    Thank you again!

  10. No need to rip out the tab! Mine rolled a bit until I blocked it and it now lays flat beautifully. Blocking will be explained in tomorrow’s posting.

  11. Ok – before I rip all the back to the beginning a second time – after knitting two parts…..I am having difficulties keeping my garter stitch tab from wanting to ‘roll forward’ – in other words, towards the right side of the work, even though I made EXTRA sure the second time through that I was nice and loose with the tab. Am I doing something wrong or is ‘simply’ the devil of stockinette stitch that’s causing the trouble? The other bits of the edge don’t seem to want to roll – just the tab. I want to make sure before I knit any further than Part 1 (again) 😉 – especially as the Simplicity is behaving a bit ‘splitty’ on me – so don’t want to rip too many times – just the one big redo!!! In advance, thank you.

  12. I’m sorry you are having a bit of trouble. The rows start differently because of the increases in the previous row. Row 53 has a k1 before repeating sl1 wyib, k1 to the 2nd marker. Row 54 has a sl1 wyif before repeating sl1 wyif, k1 to the 2nd marker. Did you forget one of these stitches? Is your stitch count correct? Don’t worry, we’ll get this worked out for you!

  13. Help. I am having trouble with row 53 and 54. You answered the question above ut it is still not clear to me. 53 starts out with (after the m1l), K1 and row 54 starts with S1. So hw would the slipped sts be the same in both rows? I am on row 54 and I hate to rip it out again I have come to the 2nd marker and still have one stitch left before the marker. I don’t know what I am doing wrong.
    Thank you

  14. It may be my left-handedness. Are the stitches that are slipped in Row 53 ALSO the ones that are slipped in Row 54? The set-up seems to be making them come out that way, but I don’t think I’m right.

  15. I ended up uninstalling and reinstalling my printer and that seemed to work, for a new printer its very tempermental, lol. Thank you so much for your offer to email me the pattern. I understand from my yarn shop that you will be visiting with us this coming Wednesday, I’m looking forward to meeting you.

  16. Yes, TYVM for having the number of stitches listed after each row. I wish more designers included this information, especially if you have to put down your project and not able to pick it up again until a few days have passed.

    Very much enjoying this project, as I got a little tired of doing socks last time. Please, more KALs with mixture of projects… more more more!!! Thanks again, having a great time with your KALs.

  17. I’ve just finished part 3 and have less than half a skein left. Is this normal or have I knitted my project too loosely? I am just concerned that I may not have enough yarn left for part 4.
    Thank you for sharing a lovely pattern!

  18. I am so thankful that you have listed the correct number of stitches at the end of each row….sure has saved me alot of ripping out !

  19. You are the first perso I’ve heard from who has had trouble. I just tried the website myself and it was fine. Try refreshing your browser and see if that helps. If you are still having problems I can email you the pattern.

  20. I’m having a really hard time opening up the link for the instructions to part three, I keep getting the message that an error with the website caused internet explorer to shut down. Is anyone else having problems with it???? I love this shawl and the yarn is sooooo soft I’ve already got a couple of Christmas presents planned. This has really been fun and I’m looking forward to next months project.

  21. I want to make the shawlette a little bigger, so from what you mentioned before, after finishing part 3, we could do repeats of whichever parts we want in order to “grow” it. That works as long as the bind-off doesn’t depend on a specific number of stitches. Is that right? Thanks!

  22. The video is a generic description of slip stitches. It demonstrates how to follow the Slip Stitch Rule on the right and wrong side. In our KAL pattern we are doing one of the otherwise stated exceptions. In Row 54 knit one, bring yarn to front, slip the next stitch. This is the repeat so after slipping the stitch with yarn in front the working yarn is returned to the back for the next knit stitch. I hope this helps!

  23. Ok I am confused. I have watched the video twice. Row 54 has ‘k1 sl 1 wyif”. The video made it sound like the inbetween stitched were purl and not knit. Should the instruction be, ‘p1 sl 1 wyif”?

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