Cableship – Part 3

Are you a huge fan of the German Short Row Heel, too?  I’m still marveling at its simple construction!

It’s now time to move up the leg with another cable design.  The instep design will continue up the front of the leg while the former heel/foot stitches will get their very own cable pattern.  I fiddled around with graph paper and practice yarn to arrive at the new cable design.  I love how it graces the back of the leg so regally.  The cables move over the ribbed design.  I think you will enjoy the unique cables found in Rows 17 and 31.  These cables include one knit and one purl stitch to form a central arch.  They are fun to work!

cableship-leg

Begin the leg by working Row 1 of the Instep pattern (found in Part 1) over the front of the leg and then working Row 1 of the Leg Back pattern over the former heel stitches.  Both charts or written instructions must be followed at the same time.  All goes well in Rows 1- 8 when the numbers are the same for both the front and back.  After Row 8, return to Row 1 (Instep Design) over the front leg and then work Row 9 (Leg Back Design) for the back of the leg.  To avoid confusion, I made a few cheat notes in my chart margins to help me stay on track.  It is easy to get lost moving from chart to chart so I found that this system worked well for me.

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Back design are seen next to the Instep design row here:

cablship-chart2

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Front (former Instep) design is seen next to the Leg Back design row:

cableship-chart3

As you can see, the Leg Back charts are rather large and fill an entire page for each size.  If you do not wish to print out all of the charts, preview the document and only print the necessary pages.

Work the Leg Back design until the leg reaches 1 1/2″ less than the total desired height of the leg ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design.  I worked two full repeats of the Leg Back design for my sock and these two repeats came to measure about 5″.  Next week’s instructions will add about 1 1/2″.

See you next week when I bring you a great new bind off perfect for toe up socks.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

C4B (C2 over 2 Right) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

C4F (C2 over 2 Left) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

LTp (Left Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

RTp (Right Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1 from left hand needle, p1 from cable needle.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium, Large in parentheses when necessary).

Leg

Prior to knitting the leg, count the stitches for accuracy.

Continue established instep design for Leg Front over first 28(32, 36) stitches beginning with Row 1. (Instructions found in Part One.)

Work Leg Back design over second 28(32, 36) stitches in appropriate size from written instructions following or from charts found below, until leg reaches 1 ½” less than desired length ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design. On Leg Front, Row 8 will be last row worked.

Leg Back – Small

  1. P1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p1.
  3. P1, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p1.
  8. P1, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p1.
  9. P1, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Medium

  1. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. K1, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k1.
  2. K1, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k1.
  3. K1, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. K1, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. K1, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  8. K1, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  9. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Large

  1. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p1.
  3. P1, k2, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  8. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  9. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

cableshipbacklegend

Leg Back – Small

cableshipsmback

Leg Back – Medium

cableshipbackmed

Leg Back – Large

cableshipbacklg

 

9 thoughts on “Cableship – Part 3

  1. There are a ton of free men’s sock patterns available on Ravelry. Don’t worry about his size 12 feet. You can always adjust the foot length. Concentrate on the circumference of his foot and calf.

  2. I want to do a toe up simple sock for my husband. He wears a size 12 shoe so the KAL doesn’t have a big enough size. How would I translate it. I will also do a simpler rib and no cables or the back cable pattern which is more subtle. Do you have a place I can go to find a men’s sock pattern?

  3. My best guess is that you pulled the yarn too tightly when making the DS. It seems counterintuitive, but pulling the yarn too tightly will make a gap. Try to use a lighter touch when making them. I recommend practicing a small heel and seeing if that helps with the tension issue.

  4. Michelle I have a question. The right side where I did the knit DS has little holes. I’ve redone it twice and I’m seeing the same thing. What am I doing wrong? Thank you

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