Transient – Part 3

I hope you enjoyed last week’s knitting.  This week brings us to the end of worrying over stopping points at the color changes, stitch counts and yardage.  From now on, the yarn is the boss!

Section 6 – BBBC, BBCC, BCCC

We begin Section 6 with 126 stitches on the needle.  This is the required amount needed for our upcoming lace section.  It doesn’t matter if you have some of BBBB remaining or if you started knitting with BBBC in the last section.  126 stitches is all you need and you can toss the other worries aside.

Section 6 is a simple lace repeat that is pivotal to the design.  In this section, three color ways are worked through to showcase the lace and the interesting gradient nature of the changes.  The beauty of this lace pattern is that it can be stopped after ANY wrong side row.  Everyone will stop Section 6 once CCCC emerges.

Begin by working Rows 125 – 136.  While the repeat (stitches after the *) is the same in every Right Side row, be careful to knit the correct number of stitches before and after the repeat in each row to establish the pattern.  After Row 136, repeat each of the rows until the appearance of CCCC in your work ending after working a Wrong Side row.  If your yarn changed to CCCC on a Right Side row, no worries;  just knit one more Wrong Side row.  It is completely fine if your yarn in this last row is all CCCC.

I knit several sample shawls and my yarn changed at different points somewhere in Rows 156-158.  It is completely fine if yours changes in a different row!  Just remember to finish after a Wrong Side row and you are good to go.  In the instructions I list my stitch count and rows for the sample seen pictured here.

I still like to keep track of my row numbers even though it doesn’t really matter where the section ends. My brain just feels more comfortable with marking the rows as seen in the photo below.  You can also use hash marks or a sticky note to keep track as well.

If you are unable to knit with Concentric, follow the row directions for Section 6 ending after Row 158.  Due to the absence of precise color changes, non – Concentric knitters will need to keep track of the row numbers to complete each section.

Section 7

This section is another garter stitch buffer and is knit in CCCC.  Just like the previous section, it doesn’t matter how many rows or stitches you have at its conclusion.  All that is necessary is to stop once the yarn changes to CCCD, ending after a Wrong Side row.  At the completion of the final Wrong Side row, there should be an even number of stitches on the needle – that is all you need.  Next week’s Section 8 will bring us a fun pattern to work over these even numbered stitches.

As noted below, my yarn changed to CCCD mid-row on Row 167, and I finished Section 7 after Row 168. (170 sts) It is perfectly fine if you ended on a different row and stitch count!

Non-Concentric knitters will work through Row 168 (170 sts).

I loved this section and I hope you have fun with it, too!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch. See Kfb Video

RS – right side.

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK Video

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side.

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video

Section 6 – BBBC, BBCC, BCCC

Row 125. (RS) K2, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 4 sts, yo, ssk, k1, kfb. (127 sts)

Row 126 (and ALL WS rows) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Row 127. K3, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k2, kfb. (129 sts)

Row 129. K4, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from to last 6 sts, yo, ssk, k3, kfb. (131 sts)

Row 131. K5, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last st, kfb. (133 sts)

Row 133. K6, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1, kfb. (135 sts)

Row 135. K1, *yo, ssk, k4; repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, ssk, kfb. (137 sts)

Row 136. Same as Row 126.

Repeat Rows 125- 136 until yarn has transitioned to CCCC ending after any Wrong Side row. Stitch count is no longer relevant.

For your reference, my yarn changed to CCCC mid-row on Row 157.  I finished Section 6 after Row 158. (160 sts) It is perfectly fine if you ended on a different row and stitch count!

For non-Concentric knitters: Repeat Rows 125 – 136 ending after Row 158. (160 sts)

 

Section 7 – CCCC

Right Side Row. Knit to last stitch, kfb. (1 st increased)

Wrong Side Row. Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Repeat the above two rows until the yarn has changed to CCCD, ending after a Wrong Side row. If your yarn changes on a Right Side row, you must work the next Wrong Side row to be ready for next week’s Section 8. Stitch count is no longer crucial.

For your reference, my yarn changed mid-row on Row 167, and I finished Section 7 after Row 168. (170 sts) It is perfectly fine if you ended on a different row and stitch count!

For non-Concentric knitters:

Row 159. (RS) Knit to last stitch, kfb. (1 st increased)

Row 160. (WS) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Rows 161 – 168. Repeat Rows 159 and 160 ending after Row 168. (170 sts)

 

 

 

 

Transient – Part 2

This week’s knitting brings another garter stitch lace pattern nestled between two bands of garter stitch.  I think you will love the charm it adds to our reversible shawl.  I recommend inserting a lifeline into your knitting before continuing on with the following sections.  I don’t want you to lose last week’s hard work.

Section 3 – AABB

We begin at Section 3 which is knit with Color AABB in all garter stitch.  Depending on how much remained in your run of Color AAAB, your yarn should change to AABB in short order.  For your reference, all of my samples changed to AABB somewhere in Row 77.  It is OK if your color change is a bit different – the gradient nature of the yarn is very forgiving!

At the end of Section 3 you will likely be knitting with ABBB or pretty close to it.  My samples changed to ABBB somewhere between Row 94 and 95.  You must continue through Row 96 to reach the required 98 stitches for the upcoming lace in Section 4.

Section 4 – ABBB

This section is worked in the lovely Cat’s Paw pattern.  Often used in Shetland lace fabrics, which are garter stitch-based, this is one of the rare circular motifs in knitting.  A few carefully arranged pairs of simple increases and decreases are all that are needed for this little charmer.  They really do resemble their namesake:)

Section 4 is the shortest one so far and you will find yourself left with a good length of ABBB remaining after Row 108.  I had approximately 40 – 45″ of ABBB remaining after Row 108 in my samples.  Have no fear if yours is different – we are almost to the end of row concerns in the shawl!

For the newbie lace knitters in the group, rest assured that the upcoming patterns are very simple and relaxing.  Be proud of your progress!

Section 5 – BBBB

Another stretch of relaxing garter stitch awaits you in Section 5.  The yarn changed to BBBB in my samples ranging from Row 109 to 111.  My yarn changed to BBBC in Rows 123 or 124.  Everyone must knit through Row 124 to achieve the required 126 stitches needed for next week’s Section 6.

After Section 5, you will no longer need to worry about the yarn changing at or near a prescribed row.  Next week’s clue uses a new formula that is unique to each knitter.  It’s so much fun!

Enjoy!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

k3tog tbl – knit three together through the back loops. See K3tog tbl Video

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch. See Kfb Video

RS – right side.

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK Video

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side.

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video

Section 3 – AABB

Row 77. (RS) Knit to last stitch, kfb. (1 st increased)

Row 78. (WS) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Rows 79 – 96. Repeat Rows 77 and 78 ending after Row 96. (98 sts)

You will be at or near the end of AABB.

Section 4 – ABBB

Row 97. (RS) K3, yo, ssk, k2, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; repeat from * to last st, kfb.  (99 sts)

Row 98 (and ALL WS rows through Row 108). Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Row 99. K4, yo, ssk, k1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, kfb. (101 sts)

Row 101. K2, k2tog, yo, k3, *k4, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k3; repeat from * to last 5 sts, k4, kfb. (103 sts)

Row 103. K2, *k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1, kfb. (105 sts)

Row 105. K2, *k2, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k3, kfb. (107 sts)

Row 107. K2, *k4, yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k3; repeat from * to last 6 sts, k5, kfb. (109 sts)

Row 108. Same as Row 98. (110 sts)

At the conclusion of Section 4, you will be at or near the end of ABBB.

Section 5 – BBBB

Row 109. (RS) Knit to last stitch, kfb. (1 st increased)

Row 110. (WS) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Rows 111 – 124. Repeat Rows 109 and 110 ending after Row 124. (126 sts)

You will be at or near the end of BBBB.

Transient – Part 1

Welcome to the Progressive Needles Knit Along sponsored by Skacel Collection.  Transient is a great new pattern designed to showcase the gradient colors found in HiKoo’s Concentric yarn.  Before we begin, here is an overview of the KAL:

  • A portion of the 4-part mystery pattern is revealed here on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th Thursdays in April at 9am Eastern time.  The weekly pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having  your own private knitting tutor!
  • Projects completed by May 15 are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.
  • VERY IMPORTANT:  Transient is a FREE pattern through May 31.  After this date, it will only be available for purchase on Ravelry.  Be sure to download each portion of the pattern prior to this date.  Saving it to your Ravelry page will NOT save the pattern.  The helpful tips and videos for each section will remain on my website indefinitely.

The Yarn

No doubt you have been gazing at your lovely cake of yarn and wondering how it achieves its uniform color gradience.  Concentric is comprised of four, thin plies of yarn that are left untwisted.  All four of these plies are held together while knitting to create a worsted weight yarn.  At the beginning of the skein (whether from the outside or the inside), there are four strands of the same color.  We will name that AAAA – 4 strands of Color A.  At the end of 30 meters (approx. 33 yards), one of the plies will change to the next color (color B).  We will call that AAAB – 3 strands of Color A and 1 strand of Color B.  At the end of the next 30 meters, the plies change to 2 strands of Color A and 2 strands of Color B – AABB (seen below).

After another 30 meters, another strand is changed leaving 1 strand of Color A and 3 strands of Color B – ABBB.  Lastly, the final 30 meters brings the color to all 4 strands in Color B – BBBB.  This exact coloring pattern occurs through 13 changes ending with DDDD.  I have spelled out the sequence in the Pattern Notes below for your reference.

Each section in the pattern will deal with one or more of these colorways.  For those knitters unable to use Concentric, follow the pattern instructions as written unless otherwise indicated in the directions.

Concentric may be knit from the inside or the outside of the skein.  Since the colors change every 30 meters, the direction that the yarn is used has no impact on the the pattern.  If you choose to knit from the inside of the skein, I recommend placing it inside of a ziploc bag and feeding the yarn through the top of the bag to contain the skein as the yardage diminishes.

Shawl Basics

Transient is an asymmetrical triangle that allows it to be worn in many ways.  (See Schematic below)  The triangle gets its shape by increasing one stitch on every row at the same edge.  In other words, on right side rows, an increase is worked into the last stitch of the row.  The worked is then turned and an increase is worked into the first stitch of this wrong side row.  All increases are worked at this edge as a kfb – knit front and back.

The shawl is completely reversible so it is very helpful to hang a marker on the right side of the fabric to avoid confusion.

I found a row counter to be an essential tool in this project.  Many of the stitch patterns are simple and it is easy to cruise along paying no attention to the row number.  Should you lose track of your row count, I have a few tips for you.  After completing a right side row, there will be an odd number of stitches on the needle.  After completing a wrong side row, there will be an even number of stitches on the needle.  If you have lost your row count completely, a little math will get you back on track.  There will be two more stitches on the needle than the number of the last completed row. Example:  If there are 75 stitches on the needle, then the last completed row is Row 73.

Gauge Swatches Are Liars!

While I try to always speak kindly, it is hard to hold my tongue in the face of traitorous gauge swatches.  Many times I have knit a great big swatch, measured diligently several times, only to find that once I start the project my gauge has changed.  What are we knitters to do in the face of these evil liars?

The truth of the matter is that we have human hands that are handcrafting thousands of stitches.  Unlike a machine, each stitch is uniform but not exactly the same.  Stitches change with mood, comfort level, temperature, humidity, stitch familiarity, and needle material.  Once we accept this fact, gauges should be thought of as a first attempt at stitch counts.  A knitter should always check gauge again as the project is underway to once again evaluate the stitches.

Part One is a very short knit to provide ample time to check your gauge and reknit if necessary.  There is NO danger in running out of yarn.  Everyone will knit the shawl until all of the yarn is used.  (This will make so much more sense as the pattern is revealed – have faith!)  Should you need to reevaluate your gauge, watch my Gauge in Garter Stitch video for an accurate assessment.

Gauge and Section 1

The first section of Transient  is worked in simple garter stitch to anchor this end of the shawl.  The goal is to finish the section at or near the end of Color AAAA.  I knit three shawls and each of them ended with a different amount of AAAA yarn remaining at the end of Section 1.  That’s right – same person, same needles, same yarn and I used a different amount of yarn each time.  I ended up with 1/2 yard to 3 yards of AAAA at the end of Section 1 in each of my samples.  I recommend starting with your swatch needle size or perhaps one larger if you went down two or more sizes.  Work Section 1 and then evaluate how much length you have remaining in AAAA.  If you have less than 3 yards of AAAA then I would just continue with that needle size.  If you have more than 3 yards, I would try again on a larger needle.  Conversely, if you started into AAAB on the last row or two of Section 1 that is fine as well.

Every knitter must stop at the end of Row 52 with 54 stitches to set the stage for the lace in the upcoming section.  If you are not satisfied with the stopping point in your yarn, you can unravel and reknit on a different needle, cut your yarn to “cheat” and hurry up the color change, or merrily ignore all of this business and knit on.

Please know that stitch counts and exact stopping points will only occur in Parts 1 and 2 (weeks 1 & 2) of the KAL.  The larger areas in Parts 3 and 4 (weeks 3 & 4) will have you ignoring stitch counts, letting the colors be the boss.  I will reveal this bit of magic later:)

Section 1 – AAAA

Unravel your gauge swatch as all of the skein is needed for the shawl.  Tie a simple knot near the end of your yarn to corral the four plies and prevent one yarn from scooting ahead of the others.  Cast on 2 stitches, leaving an 8″ tail to weave in later.  Work Rows 1 – 52.  At this point you can compare your yarn usage with the pattern and determine if another needle size is needed.

Section 2 – AAAB

Section 2 features a garter diamond lace pattern that is comprised of simple increases and decreases.  If you are new to lace knitting, rest assured that this small section is as tough as it gets in this shawl.  We have stretches of delightfully relaxing and beautiful stitches ahead in the shawl!

In addition to the single decreases k2tog and ssk, this section uses the double decrease k3tog tbl – knit three together through the back loop.  While this stitch is rather simple to execute, sharp needle tips make this decrease a snap to work.

A few tips for Section 2:

  • In all of my shawls, the yarn changed to AAAB somewhere in Row 54.  Don’t worry if yours is slightly different!
  • To avoid excessive counting, place a removable marker after the first 50 stitches from the beginning of the right side row.  As your shawl grows, add additional markers for each new 50 stitches.  (The markers will need to move in a few of the lace rows, but are easily replaced.)
  • Row 57 – don’t forget the yarn over that precedes the k1, kfb at the end of the row.
  • Row 58 – the yarn overs that flank each side of the k3tog tbl on the previous row like to get all jumbled up.  The order on the needles of these 3 stitches should be yo, k3tog tbl, yo.
  • After Row 76, I had between 12 – 36″ of AAAB remaining.  This is for your reference and not an exact requirement.

Pictured below is Part One completed.  Get ready for three sections of knitting next week!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part One

Click here to download printable version

Concentric by HiKoo, 100% baby alpaca, 200 g / 437 yards, one skein

US # 8(5mm) 32” circular needle

Approx. 20 stitches and 40 rows = 4” in garter stitch, unblocked

53” at widest edge, 27” deep

k2tog – knit two together. See K2tog Video

k3tog tbl – knit three together through the back loops. See K3tog tbl Video

kfb – knit into front and back of stitch. See Kfb Video

RS – right side.

ssk – slip next stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these two slipped stitches from left to right and knit together.  See SSK Video

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side.

yo – yarn over. See Yarn Over Video

Pattern Notes

  • Pattern is written for Concentric.  For non-Concentric knitters, instructions are the same unless indicated in section.
  • Concentric is comprised of 4 unplied strands. One strand changes colors approx. every 30 meters (approx. 33 yards) for a total of 13 color sections.
  • Each colorway of Concentric contains 4 colors (A, B, C, D). The color changing sequence works as follows:
    • All 4 strands are Color A for 30 meters – AAAA
    • 3 strands are Color A, 1 strand is Color B for 30 meters – AAAB
    • 30 meters of each colorway continues:
    • AABB
    • ABBB
    • BBBB
    • BBBC
    • BBCC
    • BCCC
    • CCCC
    • CCCD
    • CCDD
    • CDDD
    • DDDD
  • Project may be knit from the outside or inside of the skein.
  • One stitch is increased each row.
  • Increase is made into last stitch of Right Side rows and into first stitch on Wrong Side rows.
  • Pattern is reversible – fasten marker to Right Side of fabric to prevent confusion.
  • There will be an odd number of stitches at the completion of a Right Side row and an even number of stitches after the completion of a Wrong Side row.
  • Lost row count? There should be two more stitches on the needle than the number of the last completed row. Example: At the completion of Row 73, there will be 75 stitches on the needle.

Section 1 – AAAA

Cast on two stitches using the Long Tail Cast On.

Row 1. (RS) Knit to last stitch, kfb. (1 st increased)

Row 2. (WS) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased)

Rows 3 – 52. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 ending after Row 2. (54 sts)

You will be at or near the end of AAAA.

 

Section 2 – AAAB

Row 53. (RS) K2, *k2tog, yo, k4; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, kfb. (55 sts)

Row 54. (and ALL WS rows through Row 76) Kfb, knit to end of row. (1 st increased).

Row 55. K4, *yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, yo, ssk, k1, kfb. (57 sts)

Row 57. K2, *k3, yo, k3tog tbl, yo; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1, kfb. (59 sts)

Row 59. K5, *k2tog, yo, k4; repeat from * to last st, kfb. (61 sts)

Row 61. K4, *k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k1, kfb. (63 sts)

Row 63. K3, k2tog, yo, k3, *yo, k3tog tbl, yo, k3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k1, kfb. (65 sts)

Row 65. Same as Row 53. (67 sts)

Row 67. Same as Row 55. (69 sts)

Row 69. Same as Row 57. (71 sts)

Row 71. Same as Row 59. (73 sts)

Row 73. Same as Row 61. (75 sts)

Row 75. Same as Row 63. (77 sts)

Row 76. Same as Row 54. (78 sts)

At the conclusion of Section 2, you will be at or near the end of AAAB.

 

Cableship – Part 3

Are you a huge fan of the German Short Row Heel, too?  I’m still marveling at its simple construction!

It’s now time to move up the leg with another cable design.  The instep design will continue up the front of the leg while the former heel/foot stitches will get their very own cable pattern.  I fiddled around with graph paper and practice yarn to arrive at the new cable design.  I love how it graces the back of the leg so regally.  The cables move over the ribbed design.  I think you will enjoy the unique cables found in Rows 17 and 31.  These cables include one knit and one purl stitch to form a central arch.  They are fun to work!

cableship-leg

Begin the leg by working Row 1 of the Instep pattern (found in Part 1) over the front of the leg and then working Row 1 of the Leg Back pattern over the former heel stitches.  Both charts or written instructions must be followed at the same time.  All goes well in Rows 1- 8 when the numbers are the same for both the front and back.  After Row 8, return to Row 1 (Instep Design) over the front leg and then work Row 9 (Leg Back Design) for the back of the leg.  To avoid confusion, I made a few cheat notes in my chart margins to help me stay on track.  It is easy to get lost moving from chart to chart so I found that this system worked well for me.

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Back design are seen next to the Instep design row here:

cablship-chart2

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Front (former Instep) design is seen next to the Leg Back design row:

cableship-chart3

As you can see, the Leg Back charts are rather large and fill an entire page for each size.  If you do not wish to print out all of the charts, preview the document and only print the necessary pages.

Work the Leg Back design until the leg reaches 1 1/2″ less than the total desired height of the leg ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design.  I worked two full repeats of the Leg Back design for my sock and these two repeats came to measure about 5″.  Next week’s instructions will add about 1 1/2″.

See you next week when I bring you a great new bind off perfect for toe up socks.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

C4B (C2 over 2 Right) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

C4F (C2 over 2 Left) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

LTp (Left Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

RTp (Right Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1 from left hand needle, p1 from cable needle.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium, Large in parentheses when necessary).

Leg

Prior to knitting the leg, count the stitches for accuracy.

Continue established instep design for Leg Front over first 28(32, 36) stitches beginning with Row 1. (Instructions found in Part One.)

Work Leg Back design over second 28(32, 36) stitches in appropriate size from written instructions following or from charts found below, until leg reaches 1 ½” less than desired length ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design. On Leg Front, Row 8 will be last row worked.

Leg Back – Small

  1. P1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p1.
  3. P1, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p1.
  8. P1, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p1.
  9. P1, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Medium

  1. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. K1, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k1.
  2. K1, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k1.
  3. K1, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. K1, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. K1, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  8. K1, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  9. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Large

  1. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p1.
  3. P1, k2, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  8. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  9. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

cableshipbacklegend

Leg Back – Small

cableshipsmback

Leg Back – Medium

cableshipbackmed

Leg Back – Large

cableshipbacklg

 

Cableship – October KAL!

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Cables and I have long had a deep, loving relationship that I refer to as a “cableship”.  I bring the yarn and needles, while the cables bring the power to make my heart sing!

Join me October 6th for my next mystery knit along, Cableship.  This toe up sock pattern is full of great cable techniques, but also includes a heel new to the series.  Yes, I have uncovered another method for simple sock success!

I designed Cableship to showcase the vibrant hues of Zauberball sock yarn.  The sock knits up beautifully in every shade of this rich, gradient yarn.  My video tutorials and daily interaction make the sock knitting a snap.  The only hard part will be choosing just one color of Zauberball!

The KAL is FREE and no registration is required.  Simply go to knitpurlhunter.com anytime after 9 am on October 6th to download the first installment of the pattern.  I answer questions daily on my website and in my Ravelry group.

Prizes are generously provided by our sponsor, Skacel Collection.

Materials

  • Zauberball Socks, 75%wool/25%nylon, 100g/459 yards, 1 skein
  • US #2 (2.75mm) or size necessary to achieve desired gauge.  Pattern may be knit with double points, two circulars or Magic Loop method.
  • Cable needle
  • Markers

Gauge

Approx. 8 sts = 1″ in stockinette

Size

Small, Medium and Large.
Small – leg circumference measures approximately 5” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 10”.
Medium – leg circumference measures approximately 6” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 12”.
Large – leg circumference measures approximately 7” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 14”.

Further size adjustment may be made by changing needle sizes.