Cableship – Part 3

Are you a huge fan of the German Short Row Heel, too?  I’m still marveling at its simple construction!

It’s now time to move up the leg with another cable design.  The instep design will continue up the front of the leg while the former heel/foot stitches will get their very own cable pattern.  I fiddled around with graph paper and practice yarn to arrive at the new cable design.  I love how it graces the back of the leg so regally.  The cables move over the ribbed design.  I think you will enjoy the unique cables found in Rows 17 and 31.  These cables include one knit and one purl stitch to form a central arch.  They are fun to work!

cableship-leg

Begin the leg by working Row 1 of the Instep pattern (found in Part 1) over the front of the leg and then working Row 1 of the Leg Back pattern over the former heel stitches.  Both charts or written instructions must be followed at the same time.  All goes well in Rows 1- 8 when the numbers are the same for both the front and back.  After Row 8, return to Row 1 (Instep Design) over the front leg and then work Row 9 (Leg Back Design) for the back of the leg.  To avoid confusion, I made a few cheat notes in my chart margins to help me stay on track.  It is easy to get lost moving from chart to chart so I found that this system worked well for me.

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Back design are seen next to the Instep design row here:

cablship-chart2

Margin notes for the corresponding Leg Front (former Instep) design is seen next to the Leg Back design row:

cableship-chart3

As you can see, the Leg Back charts are rather large and fill an entire page for each size.  If you do not wish to print out all of the charts, preview the document and only print the necessary pages.

Work the Leg Back design until the leg reaches 1 1/2″ less than the total desired height of the leg ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design.  I worked two full repeats of the Leg Back design for my sock and these two repeats came to measure about 5″.  Next week’s instructions will add about 1 1/2″.

See you next week when I bring you a great new bind off perfect for toe up socks.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Three

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

C4B (C2 over 2 Right) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

C4F (C2 over 2 Left) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

LTp (Left Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in front of work, p1 from left hand needle, k1 from cable needle.

RTp (Right Twist, purl bg) – slip next stitch to cable needle and hold in back of work, k1 from left hand needle, p1 from cable needle.

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium, Large in parentheses when necessary).

Leg

Prior to knitting the leg, count the stitches for accuracy.

Continue established instep design for Leg Front over first 28(32, 36) stitches beginning with Row 1. (Instructions found in Part One.)

Work Leg Back design over second 28(32, 36) stitches in appropriate size from written instructions following or from charts found below, until leg reaches 1 ½” less than desired length ending after Row 32 of Leg Back design. On Leg Front, Row 8 will be last row worked.

Leg Back – Small

  1. P1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p1.
  3. P1, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p1.
  8. P1, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p1.
  9. P1, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Medium

  1. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. K1, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k1.
  2. K1, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k1.
  3. K1, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. K1, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. K1, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  8. K1, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k1.
  9. K1, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

Leg Back – Large

  1. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

2 – 8. Same as 1.

  1. P1, k2, p2 ,k2, C4F, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, C4B, k2, p2, k2, p1.
  2. P1, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p2, k10, p2, k2, p1.
  3. P1, k2, p2, k4, C4F, (k2, p2) twice, k2, C4B, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  4. Same as 1.
  5. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  6. Same as 1.
  7. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, C4F, k2, C4B, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  8. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k14, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.
  9. P1, k2, p2, k4, p2, k4, p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k4, p2, k4, p2, k2, p1.

18 – 26. Same as 1.

  1. Same as 13.
  2. Same as 1.
  3. Same as 15.
  4. Same as 16.
  5. Same as 17.
  6. Same as 1.

cableshipbacklegend

Leg Back – Small

cableshipsmback

Leg Back – Medium

cableshipbackmed

Leg Back – Large

cableshipbacklg

 

Posted in Cableship, Uncategorized | Tagged | 9 Responses

Cableship – Part 2

The lovely cabled foot is complete and a perfect showcase for the gradient stripes.  I will bet that you have the pattern memorized and are itching for something new.  Before proceeding, be sure that you ended the foot design after completing Round 4.

I am thrilled to bring the German Short Row Heel to Cableship.  I adore this technique because there are no wraps to make or pick up.  The absence of wraps makes the construction simple enough for even the most novice sock knitter.  I also know that you will appreciate the heel’s nearly uninterrupted appearance.

cableship-heel

Before beginning the heel,  I HIGHLY recommend placing a lifeline through the stitches to safeguard the hard-earned foot design.  I like to use thin cotton yarn or embroidery floss for my sock lifelines.  See my Lifelines video for this essential knitting skill. 

The magic in a German Short Row Heel is made possible by working a Double Stitch in place of the usual wrap & turns.  To make a double stitch, with yarn in front, slip next stitch to right needle as if to purl. Next, pull the working yarn firmly to the back so that the slipped stitch is pulled over the top of the right needle with both legs visible on the needle making it appear as if it were two stitches. Return working yarn to knit or purl position for next heel stitch.

Just as you would expect, I have a comprehensive German Short Row Heel video to guide you through every step of the heel.  I demonstrate the entire process, including double stitches and tips for success.  Like me, this may be your new go-to heel!

A few words of advice before you begin the heel.  The construction is simple, but like any new skill, it improves with practice.  Consider making a small sock like mine in the video to practice on before moving to Cableship.  Also, caution yourself to tug firmly on the working yarn but not TOO firmly.  Remember that Zauberball is a single ply yarn and will not withstand Herculean pulls.  Lastly, don’t forget to keep the Part 1 instructions handy as you will need to work a few more rounds of the instep design while constructing the heel.

For experienced two at a time sock knitters, the process is much the same as in any short row two at a time heel.  For those new to both two at a time and short rows, please consider separating the socks and working the heels one at a time to makes things easier for you.  The socks can be returned to one needle after the heel for two at a time knitting up the leg.

Speaking of the leg, I have an original cable design to debut next week that will lend a wow factor to the sock.

Happy knitting,

Michelle

Part Two

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

DS (double stitch) – with yarn in front, slip next stitch to right needle as if to purl. Next, pull the working yarn firmly to the back so that the slipped stitch is pulled over the top of the right needle with both legs visible on the needle making it appear as if it were two stitches. Return working yarn to knit or purl position for next heel stitch. See German Short Row Heel video

PM – place marker

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium, Large in parentheses when necessary).

Heel – See German Short Row Heel Video

Maintain established design pattern across 28 (32, 36) instep stitches.

The 28 (32, 36) sole stitches will form the heel.

I recommend placing a lifeline before beginning the heel.  See Lifelines Video

Part 1

Work Round 5 of established pattern over instep stitches.

Over heel stitches, k9 (11, 12), PM, k10 (10, 12), PM, k9 (11, 12).

Turn to wrong side of heel stitches. (No longer working in the round.)

Row 1. With WS facing, make DS, purl to end of heel, turn.

Row 2. With RS facing, make DS, knit across heel to DS from previous row. Do not knit the DS. Turn.

Row 3. (WS) Make DS, purl to DS from previous row, turn.

Row 4. (RS) Make DS, knit to DS from previous row, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all of the stitches after the second marker are doubled and only one stitch remains undoubled before the first marker, ending after Row 3.

You will need to turn the work as usual after Row 3, make a DS on RS to complete all of the needed double stitches. The center stitches between the markers remain undoubled with working yarn attached to stitch that is right of the first marker.

At this point of the heel construction, with right side facing, the heel stitches are on the needles as seen in the photo below.

cableship-heel2

Reading above stitches from left to right:

On left hand needle – left side of heel, 2nd marker (orange), center stitches, 1st marker (green). On right hand needle – right side of heel.

Part 1 (cont.)

Slip 1st marker, knit across center stitches.

Slip 2nd marker, knit across stitches that are left of the center stitches, working each double stitch as if it were one stitch. (Insert right needle under both strands and work together as if a k2tog.)

Return to knitting in the round and work Round 6 of established pattern across instep stitches.

On heel, knit the double stitches that are right of the center stitches, working each double stitch as if it were one stitch.

Knit across remaining heel stitches, slipping markers. (Count the stitches – you should have 28 (32, 36) sts.

Work Round 7 of established pattern across instep stitches. (This is a cable round!)

Part 2

Row 1. With RS facing, knit heel stitches to second marker, slip marker, k1, turn.

Row 2. With WS facing, make DS, slip marker, purl across center heel stitches, slip marker, p1, turn. Markers may be removed now.

Row 3. (RS) Make DS, knit across heel to DS from previous row, knit the DS (treating it as one stitch as in Part 1), k1, turn.

Row 4. (WS) Make DS, purl across heel to DS from previous row, purl the DS (treating it as one stitch), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until the last stitch on right hand side of heel is purled ending after Row 4. Turn. One doubled stitch remains on left hand side of heel.

With RS facing, make DS, knit to DS at end of heel, knit the DS. Do NOT turn! One doubled stitch remains at beginning of heel (right hand side).

Return to knitting in the round. Work Round 8 of established pattern over instep stitches. Knit the last DS and knit across heel.

Heel is complete!

 

Posted in Cableship | Tagged | 30 Responses

Cableship – Part 1

Welcome to the fall installment of the Progressive Needles Knit Along.  I’m excited to get back to sock knitting with you, especially one with so many great techniques and new videos!  As always, continued praise for our sponsor, Skacel Collection, whose support makes these KALs possible.

Before we begin, here is an overview of the KAL:

  • A portion of the 4-part mystery pattern is revealed here on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th Thursdays in October at 9am Eastern time.  The weekly pattern, video resources and lots of helpful tips are included in each post.  An abbreviated, pattern-only version is included to download.
  • All techniques are supported with video instruction at knitpurlhunter.com
  • All questions and comments are monitored daily both here and in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.  It’s like having  your own private knitting tutor!
  • Projects completed (one sock) by November 15 are eligible for the monthly prize drawing – first prize is a set of addi Clicks!  See skacelknitting.com for all the info.

When designing socks, sometimes the stitch pattern determines which yarn I will choose.  At other times, it is the yarn that is driving the stitch selection.  For Cableship, I knew that I wanted to design a sock using Zauberball yarn.  The deeply intense, gradient yarn has long been a favorite of mine.  I just knew I had to come up with a pattern that would do justice to this lovely yarn.  The answer?  Cables!  No matter which shade of Zauberball you chose, it will showcase the strong cable design.  As the colors flow, so will your stately cables!

Zauberball is a single ply yarn with a different “feel” than other plied yarns.  I firmly believe that every knitter and yarn have a get-acquainted period before reaching the zen moment when the stitches and yarn start to fly.  Every worthy yarn deserves a courtship, so enjoy getting to know this colorful beauty.  Because of the long color runs in Zauberball it is likely that you will not have identically striped socks.  I embrace this departure from the ordinary!

The pattern is written for one at a time sock knitting.  If you are a die hard two at a time knitter, wind off half of the skein into a second ball.  If you want the yarns to stripe in the same color sequence, the second ball of yarn must be rewound to run in the same direction as the original skein.

Gauge is very important when knitting any sock.  I have knit hundreds of socks and my experience tells me that a 64 stitch sock on #1 (2.5mm) needles is the formula for me so that is where I started.  Oh, how I hate to be wrong!  My first attempt at Cableship was with a #1 needle and too snug.  I knit the same sock on #2 (2.75mm) needles and the sizing is now perfect for me.  In the photo below, the blue sock on top was knit with #1’s and the lower green sock was knit with #2’s.  It’s amazing the difference made by a quarter of a millimeter!

cableship-gauge

I share my experience with you as a caution to the veterans who will jump in with their usual size needle.  Cableship is a bit firmer of a sock due to the cables, but it will also incorporate a rib based pattern to make it more forgiving.  If you have a go-to needle size, you may want to use one size larger.  For the diligent knitters who swatched, life is good and proceed with the needle determined by your gauge.

I think it is best to determine the size sock to knit by the circumference of your leg.  Measure about 4″ inches above the ankle and use this measurement to determine the best size option for you.  You can knit the foot to any length and the leg is knit to 6″ or shorter.  The medium size is the dreaded average women’s sock:)

Cableship is a toe up sock that begins with Judy’s Magic Cast On (JMCO).  My video is the most-watched tutorial of JMCO on Youtube.  I feel a bit sheepish about this since my video equipment has vastly improved since its debut.  This prompted me to film a new JMCO video in HD with clearer pictures and sound.  It includes the same instructions plus a few extra tips.  One of the tips is to work the toe increases using the make one stitch (which I use in Cableship) instead of a kfb.  Watch my new version and let me know what you think!

Once the toe is complete, begin the foot design over the first half of the stitches following the written or charted instructions.  The foot design is fairly simple once established because you will always knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches in between the cables.  It makes for fast knitting!   Take care to knit from the correct size instructions.  When using the charts, I like to color code the cable symbols for fast reading.  Below is pictured my color coding for the medium size.

cableship-chart

Continue knitting the cable design over the foot until it measure 2″ less than the desired length ending after Round 4.  For example, if your actual foot is 9″ long then knit the sock to 7″.  (The heel will add the extra 2″ needed.)  If you are knitting with the magic loop or two circs, try the sock on your foot and assess the length from that vantage point.

Cableship’s foot is seen here below and ready for the heel.  Did I mention that we will be knitting a heel new to the series?  I can’t wait to share it with you!!!!

Happy knitting,

Michelle

cableship1

P.S.  The “bunchy” toe will smooth out on your foot:)

Part One

Click here to download printable version

KPHtemplate_materials

  • Zauberball Socks, 75%wool/25%nylon, 100g/459 yards, 1 skein
  • US #2 (2.75mm) or size necessary to achieve desired gauge. Pattern may be knit with double points, two circular or Magic Loop method.  See Magic Loop Video
  • Cable needle
  • Two markers

KPHtemplate_gauge

8 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette

KPHtemplate_size

Women’s Small, Medium and Large.

Small – leg circumference measures approximately 5” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 10”.

Medium – leg circumference measures approximately 6” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 12”.

Large – leg circumference measures approximately 7” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 14”.

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

C4B (C2 over 2 Right) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

 C4F (C2 over 2 Left) – slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, knit next 2 stitches from left hand needle, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. See Cables Video

 M1L (Make One Left) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from front to back. Knit the lifted strand through the back. See Make One Video

 M1R (Make One Right) – With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted strand through the front. See Make One Video

KPHtemplate_instructions

Directions are for Small (Medium, Large in parentheses when necessary).

Toe

Cast On – See Judy’s Magic Cast On Video

ALL Sizes

Using two needles, cast on 24 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast On with 12 stitches on each needle.

Securing tail, knit all 24 stitches.

 

Toe Increases

If using one or two circular needle knitting method, increases are made at the beginning and end of each needle as follows:

Round 1. On 1st needle, k1, M1R, knit to last stitch on needle, M1L, k1.

On 2nd needle, k1, M1R, knit to last stitch on needle, M1L, k1.

Round 2. Knit all stitches.

If using double points, divide stitches evenly over 4 needles:

Round 1. K1, M1R, knit to last stitch on 2nd needle, M1L, k1. On 3rd needle, k1, M1R, knit to last stitch on 4th needle, M1L, k1.

Round 2. Knit all stitches.

All needle types: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until toe reaches 56 (64,72) stitches.

Foot

First 28(32, 36) stitches will form the instep (top of foot), with second 28(32, 36) stitches forming the sole.

Work appropriate size over instep stitches from written instructions (below) or from Instep Chart (following). Knit all sole stitches.

Continue knitting in pattern until foot measures 2” less than desired length of foot ending after Round 4.

(Example, if your actual foot measures 9” then knit sock to 7”.)

 

Instep – Small

Round 1. P1, k8, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k8, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 2. Same as Round 1.

Round 3. P1, C4B, C4F, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4B, C4F, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 4. Same as Round 1.

Round 5. Same as Round 1.

Round 6. Same as Round 1.

Round 7. P1, C4F, C4B, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4F, C4B, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 8. Same as Round 1.

 

Instep – Medium

Round 1. K1, p2, k8, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k8, p2, k1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 2. Same as Round 1.

Round 3. K1, p2, C4B, C4F, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4B, C4F, p2, k1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 4. Same as Round 1.

Round 5. Same as Round 1.

Round 6. Same as Round 1.

Round 7. K1, p2, C4F, C4B, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4F, C4B, p2, k1.

Round 8. Same as Round 1.

 

Instep – Large

Round 1. P1, k2, p2, k8, (p2, k2) twice, p2, k8, p2, k2, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 2. Same as Round 1.

Round 3. P1, k2, p2, C4B, C4F, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4B, C4F, p2, k2, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 4. Same as Round 1.

Round 5. Same as Round 1.

Round 6. Same as Round 1.

Round 7. P1, k2, p2, C4F, C4B, (p2, k2) twice, p2, C4F, C4B, p2, k2, p1. Knit all sole sts.

Round 8. Same as Round 1.

                                        Instep Chart – Small

cableshipsmfoot

                                         Instep Chart – Medium

cableshipmedfoot

                                             Instep Chart – Large

cableshiplgfoot

cableshiplegendfoot

Posted in Cableship | Tagged | 73 Responses

Cableship – October KAL!

DSC_0124

Cables and I have long had a deep, loving relationship that I refer to as a “cableship”.  I bring the yarn and needles, while the cables bring the power to make my heart sing!

Join me October 6th for my next mystery knit along, Cableship.  This toe up sock pattern is full of great cable techniques, but also includes a heel new to the series.  Yes, I have uncovered another method for simple sock success!

I designed Cableship to showcase the vibrant hues of Zauberball sock yarn.  The sock knits up beautifully in every shade of this rich, gradient yarn.  My video tutorials and daily interaction make the sock knitting a snap.  The only hard part will be choosing just one color of Zauberball!

The KAL is FREE and no registration is required.  Simply go to knitpurlhunter.com anytime after 9 am on October 6th to download the first installment of the pattern.  I answer questions daily on my website and in my Ravelry group.

Prizes are generously provided by our sponsor, Skacel Collection.

Materials

  • Zauberball Socks, 75%wool/25%nylon, 100g/459 yards, 1 skein
  • US #2 (2.75mm) or size necessary to achieve desired gauge.  Pattern may be knit with double points, two circulars or Magic Loop method.
  • Cable needle
  • Markers

Gauge

Approx. 8 sts = 1″ in stockinette

Size

Small, Medium and Large.
Small – leg circumference measures approximately 5” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 10”.
Medium – leg circumference measures approximately 6” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 12”.
Large – leg circumference measures approximately 7” unstretched and stretches comfortably to 14”.

Further size adjustment may be made by changing needle sizes.

Posted in Cableship, Uncategorized | 111 Responses

Scoreboard 2.0

scoreboard2

 

Click here to download printable version

Questions are also monitored daily through the end of the season in the Knit Purl Hunter group on Ravelry.

KPHtemplate_materials

Featured Yarn

HiKoo Simplicity, 55% Merino superwash, 28% acrylic, 17% nylon; 117 yds / 50g; uses two team colors, approx. 3 (6) skeins each.

Optional – one skein of a third color for a visual break between games.

addi Needles

Two 4.5mm (approx. US 7) 16” circular needles

(Second needle is needed to graft stitches using Kitchener Stitch)

Additional Notions

Tapestry needle, stitch marker, approx. 1 yd of waste yarn, Size G crochet hook – for provisional cast on

KPHtemplate_gauge

21 stitches and 27 rounds = 4” in Stockinette Stitch

KPHtemplate_size

Small (Large)

Average cowl is 8” wide, approx. 40 (94)” around.

Length around varies with total number of points scored.

KPHtemplate_abbreviations

MC – Main Color. Primary color that represents your favorite team.

CC – Contrasting Color. Secondary color that will always represent the opponent.

CC2 – Contrasting Color 2. Optional third color used to separate games.

Notes

  • Cowl is worked in the two colors of your favorite team.
  • Primary color represents your team (MC).
  • Secondary color will always represent the opponent (CC).
  • All stitches are worked in knit.
  • When changing colors, work the Jogless Stripe technique for smooth color transitions.  See Jogless Stripe video
  • When working stripes that are 4 or more rounds high, carry the unused yarn with the working yarn by twisting the yarns together on the wrong side at the beginning of every 4th round as in photo below.  See Carrying Yarns in Circular Knitting video

scoreboardcarry

 

KPHtemplate_instructions

All Sizes

With waste yarn, cast on 80 stitches using a Provisional Cast On.  See Provisional Cast On video

Place marker and join in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches.

Upon completion of first round (as described below), place a Lifeline through the stitches to aid in removal of provisional cast on at end of project. See Lifeline video

Short Version (shown above)

The striping sequence is determined by the order of the scores in each game. Knit two rounds in designated color each time a team scores. A score can be a field goal, touchdown (includes extra point), or safety.

Example game summary:

Favorite team scores a touchdown – knit 2 rounds MC

Favorite team scores a field goal – knit 2 rounds MC

Opponent scores a touchdown – knit 2 rounds CC

Favorite team scores a touchdown – knit 2 rounds MC

Opponent scores a field goal – knit 2 rounds CC

Total = 10 rounds knit for game.

Work as above for each game of the season.

 

Long Version (shown below)

The striping sequence is determined by the order and amount of the points scored in each game. Knit one round in designated color every time a team scores a point.

Example game summary:

Favorite team scores a touchdown – knit 6 rounds MC

Favorite team’s extra point is good – knit 1 round MC

Opponent scores a field goal – knit 3 rounds CC

Favorite team scores a touch down – knit 6 rounds MC

Favorite scores a 2-point conversion – knit 2 rounds MC

Opponent scores a touchdown and extra point – knit 7 rounds CC

Favorite team scores a field goal – knit 3 rounds MC

Total = 28 rounds knit for game.

Work rounds based on the points for each game of the season.

 

Both Sizes

If desired, a visual separation between the games of the season can be worked using the optional third color:

  • Option 1 Game Separation: At conclusion of game, and using CC2, knit one round, purl one round, knit one round to denote end of game with a textured break.
  • Option 2 Game Separation: At conclusion of game, and using CC2, knit one round to denote end of game with a small stripe of color 3.

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Finishing

Weave in all ends prior to closing tube.

Break yarn leaving 60” tail.

Using the Lifeline as a guide, thread the second circular needle through Round 1 and remove the waste yarn used for the provisional cast on.

Thread tail onto tapestry needle and close tube by grafting stitches with Kitchener Stitch.  See Kitchener Stitch in the Round video

If desired, weave in the tail onto the Right Side using Duplicate Stitch.  See Duplicate Stitch video

©2016 Michelle Hunter

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For an overview of the project, watch my Scoreboard KAL video.

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